Imagine visiting a part of the world where the last known record of Western civilization having had a presence there occurred nearly 100 years ago. Well today we did just that. The coastline of Eastern Greenland is riddled with fjords carved by the thousands of glaciers spilling out from the massive Greenland ice sheet. Having sailed far enough south along the coast to have left concerns of significant sea ice behind us our expedition leader and Captain chose a likely location that would afford us plenty of options for a days exploration. Rømer Fjord lies roughly 90 nautical miles south of yesterday’s locale, Scorsby Sund, and with its narrow channels and towering peaks it was very appealing, the only issue was that in the 15-mile-long fjord there were only two soundings by which we could rely. However our ship is equipped with the most advanced sonar and a Captain and crew that know how to navigate this kind of water. Leaving the band of dense fog that blankets the coastal waters we entered the fjord just before 0700 and immediately realized we were in for a very special day.
About midway up the fjord we spotted a relatively flat peninsula blanketed with tundra and chose this location to begin our day of exploring. First a few of our expedition team went ashore to get a better idea of what was in store for hiking options. As we cruised the shore scanning for polar bears and other wildlife we observed steam rising from the tundra and shoreline. An active series of fumaroles just 100 meters and less off shore! These are areas where groundwater heated by geothermal activity boil to the surface and often create bubbling pools and mineral formations as the water reacts with the atmosphere. This was truly an unexpected find and would be a real highlight for the day. By 0930 we had all the hikers ashore and we spread out over vast area to be enthralled by the delicate beauty of flowering tundra plants, scattered bones of whales and muskox from centuries of hunting by the Inuit, and firsthand looks at Earth's processes at work from glaciation to volcanic activity.
In the afternoon we repositioned just a bit further up the fjord in order to gain an even greater appreciation of this magnificent slice of Greenland. We would conclude our day here with the triple crown of activities; hiking, kayaking, and Zodiac cruising. About 40 guests hiked up a gradual slope along a dramatic canyon carved by waterfalls, an equal number chose to take a cruise to the very back of the fjord to marvel at the dramatic peaks and numerous waterfalls, lastly 60 or so guests paddled around small icebergs and took in the sights and sounds from a seal’s eye view.
Having left the fjord in the early evening we set our course for what was the last bit of significant sea ice in hopes to observe wildlife such as polar bears and seals before departing the waters of Greenland. Our luck continued and by 2130 we were making a very slow approach on a sow and her yearling cubs apparently working on a freshly taken ringed seal. While approaching two more bears were seen in the midst of the drifting pack ice. With a cautious and expert touch our Captain inched the ship closer so we all could experience this incredible sight. She fed on her kill and her two cubs intermittently took part in the bounty. We stayed with her for about an hour and then began an approach on another single bear in the distance. By the time the evening was over nine bears in total had been spotted including an exciting interaction between another female and her cubs and a lone male bear giving pursuit. By 2430 the show was over and it was time to turn our fine ship towards our next adventure.
When we began our day none of us new what was in store as simply put we were the first, outside of the indigenous Inuit, to experience this place. It was an expedition day none of us will forget.
