Our morning began with the soothing voice of our endearing expedition leader Lucho, who woke us particularly early today to beckon us onto the bow. Once there, we enjoyed the stunning scenery of the Antarctic Peninsula, and were treated to views of humpback whales in all directions. At one point, two whales surfaced beside our ship and waved at us with their brilliant white pectoral flippers. Were it not for the scent of coffee and chocolate croissants wafting through the air, we might have stayed outside all morning.
After breakfast, we launched our Zodiacs and headed to Neko Harbour. This truly spectacular location offered wonderful views of magnificent blue glaciers. A large colony of gentoo penguins make Neko their home during the Antarctic summer breeding season. Most penguins at the colony were brooding small, adorable chicks, although a few still had unhatched eggs in their clutch. The cacophony of bays and squawks emanating from the colony was delightful, as was watching the goings-on of the parents as they tended to their young.
Once past the colony, many of us continued on to a high lookout with commanding views of brilliant blue glaciers. Skuas nesting nearby could be seen taking to the air in search of opportunities for a penguin chick meal. However, arguably it was not the view that brought most of us up the hill, but the chance to sled down a steep slope as though we were all young children again.
In the afternoon, we visited Paradise Bay. Here, we kayaked among icebergs and cruised in our Zodiacs. Crabeater seals could be found resting on floating ice. Antarctic hair grass, one of only two flowering plants on the continent, grew among the moss and lichens that blanketed the cliffs. As well, we had great views of an Antarctic shag colony. Unfortunately, a near fully grown shag chick fell out of its nest and tumbled to the water below. No sooner had it landed than a south polar skua swooped in to eat the drowning bird—a visual reminder that Antarctica is a harsh place to live, and that every organism must take advantage of whatever opportunity presents itself. And we too took an opportunity…to have hot chocolate (spiked, in many cases, with Irish whiskey!) delivered to us on the water by our incredible hotel manager. Soon, we were laughing again as we headed back to the ship after another wonderful day on the Great White Continent.
