After a calm crossing, the National Geographic Endeavour reaches the western islands of the archipelago early in the morning. Coffee and fruit are served on the foredeck, where some of us look for marine life that is prevalent in these waters. We spot a pod of common dolphins around half past six in the morning, just before breakfast. The morning is calm and the sky slightly overcast. A mild breeze stirs the sea surface, but not too much, so we see the dolphins clearly. The ship follows the pod for a while, then steers towards our first anchorage of the day, which is Punta Espinoza, Fernandina.
After breakfast we head out for a walk on the shore of Fernandina, and just before landing two large male orcas appear, giving us the opportunity to see them up close from the Zodiac. We spend a good twenty minutes admiring these toothed whales while they hug the rocky and shallow reefs, looking for sea turtles or other possible prey. The large dorsal fins are almost permanently visible due to the shallow waters that these animals hunt in. What an exciting beginning to this excursion!
During the walk we see many animals, including big herds of marine iguanas, sea lions, sea turtles, flightless cormorants, a snake, a hawk, and several shore birds. Most of us are surprised at how the abundant wildlife doesn’t seem to notice us. Many interactions are observed, and the three hours spent on this small site feel like only minutes. Isabela Island, with its large shield volcanoes, dominates the horizon.
Back on board we enjoy a talk by the painter Robert Bateman, our special guest this week, who tells us about his life, his art and his relationship with nature.
In the afternoon, we relocate the ship at the very tip of Isabela, where we snorkel among many sea turtles, flightless cormorants, and a variety of different reef fish. The water is not very clear, but it is calm and almost warm. After returning to the ship, we change and head out once more, this time in dry clothes and with cameras, to take a long Zodiac ride along the mighty cliffs to spot wildlife in the afternoon light. We see fur seals, flightless cormorants, nesting brown noddies and many marine iguanas perched on the cliffs.
Once more the National Geographic Endeavour heads out, this time to cross the Equator at sunset, while the guests on board enjoy the sprawling views of the volcanoes, sipping a glass of wine. We toast on a full day with activities, lots of wildlife and so much more to come.
