All journeys begin with a decision. For the intrepid guests upon the National Geographic Explorer that decision was to take part in a once in a lifetime journey to the very bottom of our planet. Beginning yesterday in Buenos Aires, our guests visited the capital city before boarding a charter flight to Ushuaia the following morning. While sailing around the bay aboard a catamaran, a clear day and strong winds provided stunning views of the surrounding mountain range before embarkation began. Once aboard, introductions and cocktails were had before the lines were thrown and National Geographic Explorer pointed herself toward the Southern Ocean.

One thing is for certain and that is that the White Continent must be earned—the test being a journey across the Drake Passage. Known to be one of the world’s most notorious crossings, our guests steadied their determination, well aware of the reward waiting for them on the other side. Quickly losing sight of land, we allowed the roll of the open ocean to lull us to sleep. Waking this morning, we found ourselves amidst great company. Surrounding our vessel were a number of rare and beautiful seabirds. Varying species of albatross and petrels followed us throughout the day, gliding upon the updraft created by our ship as it cut through the water. This created a prime viewing and photographing opportunity, especially when accompanied by our naturalist staff giving talks emphasizing the birds flying outside our window.

Many of these birds will not be seen in the coming days as we continue south, thus it is easy to look at them as a welcome escort across the Drake Passage. Knowing we will not see many of them again until our return voyage creates its own anticipation given how much will be experienced between now and then. Not to be outdone, the White Continent sent a scout to greet us. The timing could not have been more perfect. Interrupting a staff naturalist’s talk on the very winds and currents that had carried the ice our way—a large tabular iceberg appeared two miles off the port side of our ship. Even at such a distance, its grandeur was enough to cause everyone to rush outside with cameras in hand to capture the immensity. We sleep tonight knowing what tomorrow will bring with the Drake Passage behind us to remind us that the experience has been well earned.