At 0600 hours National Geographic Explorer made her way through spectacular, ice-carved Arnárfjörđur, “Eagle Fjord,” named for the white-tailed sea eagles that were once abundant here. On either side of this deep fjord rose steep cliffs carved by glaciers from layered basaltic lava flows. Our goal this beautiful sunny morning was the remote and most striking waterfall of the West Fjords, Dynjandi, the “thundering” waterfall. Soon the magnificent waterfall at the head of the fjord came into view.
We were eager to begin our morning activities of hiking and kayaking. Right after breakfast the Zodiacs and kayaks were launched and we are off on our morning adventures. Kayakers paddled in sun-dappled water as they enjoyed the stunning views of rugged cliffs and falling water. Arctic terns plunged into the water and flew off with small fish for their chicks waiting in the grass near the sea. Along the shore oystercatchers probed into seaweed and mud with their long orange bills. A red-throated diver flew past. A small flock of noisy shorebirds flew across the water; they were the waders called redshanks.
Hikers went ashore by Zodiac and begin their treks along the shore before beginning to climb the steep trail alongside the waterfalls—yes that is plural. Dynjandi is a series of seven waterfalls. The highest part of Dynjandi pours in a broad torrent over a high precipice. Fed by snowmelt and groundwater, this cascade then leaps roaring and splashing over a series of steps formed of lava flows, falling in total about 100 meters before flowing into the sea.
On our hikes we take time not only to marvel at the waterfalls, but also to see the flora and fauna. Many flowers are blooming and there is an abundance of beautiful tundra vegetation; crowberries, bilberries, dwarf birch, downy birch, mountain avens, bedstraw, lady’s mantle, cotton grass, and more. Small flies were resting in buttercups and pollinating them at the same time. By lunchtime we are all back on board and sharing our experiences and photos with our shipmates.
In the afternoon naturalist Tom Ritchie gave an engaging presentation, Vikings: Heroes or Villains. After tea we joined our Icelandic guest speakers, Silja, Hrund, Ragna, and Sandra in the lounge for an enlightening panel discussion on topics related to Iceland. They gave in depth answers to our many questions and we gained new insight into many aspects of life in Iceland.
Meanwhile we were sailing into Ísafjarđardjup, the “Ice Fjord” on our way to the fishing town of Ísafjórđur, where a midsummer festival is underway. In the evening many of us went into town to participate and to see the giant bonfire that was part of the celebration.
