The National Geographic Orion slipped between the spiraling limestone walls of Waigeo Island in the early morning light. A flock of Blythe’s hornbills flew overhead with the audible sound of their wooshing wings.
A fleet of black Zodiacs carried us towards the long anticipated reefs of Raja Ampat. Long heralded by marine biologists as the epicenter of marine biodiversity, expectations were understandably high. We slipped into the smooth dark waters and were immediately greeted by schools of thread-fin anthias dancing in the gentle currents.
The colors of the reef however quickly diverted attention from the bewildering spectacle of fish life. Enormous purple barrel sponges presided over the reef slope like statuesque monoliths. Multi-colored crinoids waved like flowers in the breeze clinging to meter long sea whips. The limestone ledges boasted bright orange cup corals and neon pink soft corals. Could nature truly produce anything so dazzling?
A closer look between the corals revealed a miniature world of magic. Colonies of golden sea squirts competed for space amongst the profusion of life. A lone nudibranch with purple rhinophores, blue lips, and black and white stripes slid amongst the corals secure with a defense of toxic cocktails. A lone stonefish sporting cryptic colors sat in wait for an unsuspecting meal of reef fish.
An afternoon snorkel of equal splendor was followed by an evening Zodiac cruise between the verdant islands. The pitted rock walls were somehow covered with a rich diversity of plant life despite the lack of nutrients or reliable rain water. Our guide pointed out a Nepenthes pitcher plant which captures insects to make up for the lack of soil. A pair of baby black-tip sharks circled between the Zodiacs wondering who had entered their private shallow water nursery.
As the sun fell on the horizon it was time to return to the National Geographic Orion. A lone bottlenose dolphin slipped into our bow wake and stared up at a group of smiling faces. If he was looking for an opinion, his admirers were in full agreement that Raja Ampat had left a lasting impression. In the middle of the Coral Triangle, we had clearly discovered the heart of the heart.
