Newfoundland and Labrador, siblings separated by the Strait of Belle Isle, lie at the easternmost point of Canada. First in Canada to see the sun each day, they buffer the land beyond from the ferocity of the sea. Newfoundland’s finger points to Labrador, while its north-facing coast appears as knuckles on a fist, poised to snatch at drifting ice or resist the pounding waves.
The pink and purple pastel skies of early morning were adorned by flashing jewels. Lights from darkened shores sent signal pulses to warn vessels venturing near that a myriad of islands and shoals lie hidden in the black beyond. Glistening white surf rolled upon the rocky shores as we slipped into Twillingate Harbour and snuggled within its lee. Only a Tickle separates two islands, each of which claims the town of Twillingate. Hardy souls have settled here for many a generation, drawn by the proximity of prolific fishing grounds.
As so often happens, bust often follows boom and the town’s economy has changed but its people and charm remain. Serenaded by the music of an “ugli stick,” a popular local instrument, we learned of the cod fishing of the past and strolled through an interesting collection of artifacts in the Prime Berth Fishing Heritage Center. The “Iceberg Capital of the World” was devoid of frozen islands today but one could easily imagine what spring might possibly bring and there is the desire to return again to see such an amazing sight. But this day was warm, the vegetation green and a multitude of berries were ripe. We were drawn to the slopes and fields to snack on blueberries and partridge berries and then sample the wines they produce. Quite possibly though, the memories that will remain are those collected as we stood on the top of the cliffs feeling the wind in our hair and hearing the sound of the surf.
The afternoon was all about the sea and the critters living there. Puffins and fulmars drifted by. Shearwaters cut the waves. And geyser-like spouts drew us from here to there and back again as we watched the fin whales feed.
THE FIN WHALE
Fin whales are cool.
In the ocean they breathe out mist.
Not cool enough to make me faint.
Whales are awesome!
Hey whale, just show up in my eyes.
A whale won’t come out of the water for me.
Lisa, make a whale appear already!
Even more appear every second.
Connor Copeland Blicker, age 8
