With an early start, our guests boarded buses en route to the village of Old Massett. After the previous days exploration of the Haida Cultural Center and ancient burial grounds of SGang Gwaay, few things could round out the experience more than an intimate interaction with the Haida people. Beginning with a tour lead by Christian White, we were treated to an in-depth explanation of the totem poles that stood mightily outside of the long house, which he and the community erected. The poles were carved by his hand in honor of his ancestors. An even rarer invitation followed, as we were brought into his work shed where projects in progress lay before the guests to witness, ask the details of, and experience both with sight and rich smell of the cedar aroma that filled the room.
The next portion of our day continued to uphold expectations. Visiting the home of Master Carver and Haida Chief Jim Hart, we were greeted by his two sons. Being carvers themselves, long trained by their father’s watchful eye, they spoke humbly of the craft which, when witnessed up close, is nothing short of breathtaking. After a guest asked whether they ever sanded their carvings, they responded that their father had tried once, but quickly felt that he was removing the work he had done with only his hands. The blades they used lay sharply about their house, as did a chalkboard that listed the myriad of to-do’s they had in store for the coming days. It was truly an active house of creation, one that upheld the ancient traditions of their people.
Back at White’s long house, we were graced by a half dozen tribal songs accompanied by dances in full traditional regalia. Asked to join in, the guests took to the floor to participate in the cultural invitation. Afterwards, a feast of fish was served along with other rare treats that included smoked eulachon and herring eggs on kelp. It was a day of perspective and immersion in a culture that few have access to, and as we cross the Hecate Strait in order to journey into more travelled waters—none of us will forget the experience.
