Today we spent time near the north end of Isla Magdalena. This barrier island protects quiet channel where grey whales bear their young. Sometimes we heard the roar of waves from the exposed outer coast, and were reminded how near wild waters were.
By boat we went looking for whales. Some we found were adults, moving dramatically by, lifting flukes in perhaps amorous chases, whose submarine manifestations we could only imagine. But better, for us, were cow-calf pairs. The little calves must surface more often, and so are easier to follow. One pair we found was obligingly engaging. They passed our anchored ship early in the morning. Following, we found the cow nearly meditative while here calf frolicked in circles around her. Later they turned and by afternoon passed our ship again, this time moving more actively. Watching them was thrilling and at the same time pacifying.
Meanwhile, some were ashore. The dunes are a remarkable product of rhythm and chaos, resulting in the endless curves of riffle, shadow and slope. We added our own rhythmic tracks to the pitter-pattered paw-prints of jack-rabbits, foxes and mice.
While night-time creatures emerged on Isla Magdalena, we engaged in our own nocturnal undertakings – a Mexican buffet and dancing to the singing and guitars of Los Coyotes de Magdalena.
