We sent the musicians back to shore at 10:15 p.m. last night following exuberant dancing to local music. Soon, Captain Garces had our bosun haul up the anchor of the National Geographic Islander and we headed east to one of the oldest islands in the archipelago, San Cristobal. As we were traveling across the current, for the first few hours, the ship gently rocked from side to side. For some, this helped them sleep - like a baby in a cradle. We awoke to find the ship had anchored off Punta Pitt, at the northern tip of the 5 million year old island of San Cristobal.
Following a hearty breakfast of fresh tropical fruits, omelets and cereals, we disembarked on a soft fine sand beach for a hike up a dry gully to the windswept plateau. Here the view of the azure ocean below was spectacular. In contrast there were beds of an endemic succulent mat plant in the genus Sesuvium that were bright red! Our naturalist pointed out several nesting red footed boobies. This smallest of the three species of Sulidae (red-footed, blue-footed and Nazca boobies are in this sea bird family) nest in shrubs, thus they have prehensile feet to perch on the twigs, and they feed far out beyond the islands often on flying fish.
We descended the rough, ashy trail and stayed for over an hour on the greenish beach. Here we snorkeled, the kids playing in the sand, and a yearling sea lion pup entertained and enchanted us. He swam among us, whisker tickling our legs and feet and even bumping into us with his solid, graceful marine mammal body. It was thrilling and amazing to be investigated by a wild animal that had absolutely no fear of us. And that is one of the most unique and special experiences that Galapagos provides!
The fearlessness shown by the inhabitants of this archipelago is not unique to Galapagos; fearlessness is an island trait. But sadly most of the islands on our planet earth have been damaged or altered and many of the once fearless island creatures are extinct or very rare. The Galapagos ecosystem is still nearly 96% intact!
Cora, Sebastian and the other kids wanted to jump from the ship – so I radioed the Captain for permission and jump they did- time after time! Six swimmers stroked and kicked their way out to the National Geographic Islander, escorted by a Zodiac in case anyone should tire before reaching the ship. Soon we were all back on board, showered and enjoying yet another delicious meal.
In the afternoon we had a final snorkeling outing at an impressive off shore tuff cone, Leon Dormido. The cold water (again) deterred some of us, but many put on a double layer of wet suits and slipped into the murky green waters. We were rewarded with views of many sharks. There were large Galapagos sharks and tens of black tipped sharks, and also sea turtles and a couple of spotted eagle rays. It was a bit unnerving to see the sharks so close to us, appearing suddenly in the gloom, but they showed no interest in us and we were delighted to see so many of them!
Back on board and after hot showers we gathered on the sky deck for ceviche and beer and Captain Pablo Garces circumnavigated the tuff cone. We snapped many photos and reminisced on the amazing week we have shared. Truly the Galapagos Islands are magical. They are a paradise for unique species found nowhere else on the planet. We are all now ambassadors for the preservation of Las Islas Encantadas!
