Another glorious day greeted us with gentle winds and plentiful sunshine. We anchored in the lee of Penrhyn Atoll in the northern Cook Islands. Penryhn is even more remote that Manihiki, with only about 250 residents. Like Manihiki there is a pearl farming industry here, yet the islands remains a tranquil place that seldom ever sees tourists. We were warmly greeted by the local residents presenting each of us with freshly made flower leis. We gathered at the landing site where they had set up chairs so we could sit and watch a rousing dance ceremony with drum percussions and south sea smiles in abundance. A number of the local women were selling their crafts, most made of “rito,” the very finely woven palm frond fibers. There were woven hats, fans, and necklaces, some adorned with polished oyster shells. In advance of our arrival, the locals had also gathered many fresh coconuts which they deftly opened to offer each of us a refreshing drink of coconut water.
After the dancing and singing performances, and a few welcoming words from several local dignitaries, we split into various groups for additional optional activities. Some people drove by local truck to the airfield hoping to see remains of an old World War II B-24 bomber. There was a walk around the village for those with photo interest, visiting the local school, church, and graveyard where we encountered a portion of the remains of the WWII airplane wreckage that had been hauled there years ago. The avid birders climbed into the Zodiacs to drive to the windward side of the atoll where they were rewarded with wonderful views of a host of seabirds that breed on several of the more remote islets or “motus.” There were a couple of species of frigatebirds, tropicbirds, red-footed boobies and several species of terns found there in various stages of breeding or rearing chicks.
Onboard the ship, the galley and wait staff had created a festive Thanksgiving Day feast, complete with a pretty display of large pumpkin gourds and ornamental corn cobs. There was roasted turkey and ham, and plenty to be thankful for on this glorious day.
In the afternoon, the ship repositioned a short distance to a relatively quiet part of the atoll’s fringing reef. The divers again took to the water where they found a dazzling array of corals and underwater marine life. The snorkel platform went out, and also the glass bottom Zodiac. Above water we enjoyed a lovely view of classic-looking islands with palm trees. Underwater we were treated to innumerable delights easily viewed through the stunningly clear waters. The most memorable highlight for many people was seeing the numerous blacktip reef sharks that were patrolling the near shore waters and deep channels along the reef. The sharks and snorkelers seemed to be equally curious and yet also wary of each other, as if feeling a mesmerizing attraction of wanting another close view while simultaneously hesitant to approach too close. Most of the sharks were not very large, being only three to five feet in length, although underwater everything appears bigger and closer, and sharks in particular often seem that way.
