Tamarindo & Cabo Velas, Costa Rica

We awoke this morning to find ourselves back in Costa Rican waters and on our way to “Playa Grande”, part of the “Las Baulas” marine national park. We were escorted by a variety of marine life, such as yellow-bellied sea snakes and a pair of humpback whales. Although, the most appropriate companions for this journey were the numerous sea turtles (olive Ridley) we observed from the bow. “Las Baulas” is the local name for the magnificent leatherback turtles that nest along these beautiful beaches.

Leatherbacks are the largest, extant turtles and are unique among the marine turtles in that they do not have boney plates that make up the shell but instead have a leathery skin. Like most of us on this voyage, Leatherbacks sometimes travel great distances to be in this tropical paradise. This critically endangered species is found in all the major oceans but nest only in the tropics. Here in Costa Rica, they migrate from colder waters in October through March to lay their eggs on the protected Playa Grande.

Our beach mission here was a bit different. We visited the resort town of Tamarindo which is known as the surf Mecca of Costa Rica. While some explored the streets and shops, others took a try at “hanging ten” the waves. The water was just perfect; warm and inviting with smooth, rolling waves ready to ride. However, none of our water athletics compared to the juvenile humpback breaching along side the ship as we had our lunch.

Our afternoon was spent on a secluded beach on the cape of Cabo Velas where we explored the beach and the forest by kayaks, swimming, and walking. These beaches are so beautiful and inviting that I never want to leave.

In biological terms, I can explain why the Leatherback turtles come here. These fine-grained sands are easy for the turtles to dig their nests and the warm temperatures help ensure that their embryos will successfully develop. Temperature of nests is especially important in this case because, like many turtles, leatherbacks have Temperature Dependant Sex Determination, where the incubation temperature determines if the hatchlings will be males or females. These behaviors and physical characteristics developed in this species over the 200 million year evolutionary history of turtles because it optimized their fitness.

But, can I explain why we come here? Certainly not in the same biological terms. Could it also be the soft sand or the temperature? Or maybe it is simply aesthetics, what we describe as beautiful? Regardless, I hope to someday return, like the turtles, and for all our sake hope that this place remains so tranquil and pristine.