Liefdefjorden & Moffen Island
We boarded the National Geographic Endeavour at 16:00 on August 8 and turned north from Longyearbyen along the west coast of Spitsbergen. On the morning of August 9, we awoke outside the entrance to Woodfjorden with low clouds and calm winds. Shortly after entering the fjord, we spotted our first polar bear of the trip lying just above the beach on Reindeer Flats. The bear sensed a seal nearby and gave halfhearted chase along the beach. The National Geographic Endeavour turned into Liefdefjorden under rising cloud cover that provided beautiful glimpses of the high peaks and glaciers along the sides of the fjord.
We spotted a second polar bear on a small island and then two more bears in the distance as we continued southwest down the fjord. At noon, we adjourned to the dining room to enjoy a fine lunch. Shortly afterward, the National Geographic Endeavour anchored off Sördalsflya and we went ashore for hikes across the low hills. These hikes took us to the grave of a German soldier who died during WWII, around a small lake with geese, past large glacial erratics, and across patterned ground produced by freeze and thaw cycles.
After our hike, the National Geographic Endeavour steamed up to the spectacular ice cliff of Monaco Glacier. The sharply pointed mountains of Precambrian metamorphic rock high above the glacier provided wonderful views of glacially carved ridges (arêtes), u-shaped valleys carved by tributary glaciers (hanging valleys), and various forms of glacial sediment (moraines). In front of the glacier, we noted the small island recently unveiled by the retreating glacier. Numerous icebergs produced by recent calving formed a sea of small bergs that shifted in the strong currents emanating from subglacial rivers. Kittiwakes gathered to feed on the fish brought to the surface by turbulence and the mixing of salt and fresh water where the rivers entered the fjord.
The National Geographic Endeavour departed Liefdefjorden and headed north toward Moffen Island as we gathered for cocktail hour in the lounge. We reached Moffen about 21:30 and enjoyed watching a group of walrus hauled out on the beach. The National Geographic Endeavour then turned east toward Hinlopen Strait.
We boarded the National Geographic Endeavour at 16:00 on August 8 and turned north from Longyearbyen along the west coast of Spitsbergen. On the morning of August 9, we awoke outside the entrance to Woodfjorden with low clouds and calm winds. Shortly after entering the fjord, we spotted our first polar bear of the trip lying just above the beach on Reindeer Flats. The bear sensed a seal nearby and gave halfhearted chase along the beach. The National Geographic Endeavour turned into Liefdefjorden under rising cloud cover that provided beautiful glimpses of the high peaks and glaciers along the sides of the fjord.
We spotted a second polar bear on a small island and then two more bears in the distance as we continued southwest down the fjord. At noon, we adjourned to the dining room to enjoy a fine lunch. Shortly afterward, the National Geographic Endeavour anchored off Sördalsflya and we went ashore for hikes across the low hills. These hikes took us to the grave of a German soldier who died during WWII, around a small lake with geese, past large glacial erratics, and across patterned ground produced by freeze and thaw cycles.
After our hike, the National Geographic Endeavour steamed up to the spectacular ice cliff of Monaco Glacier. The sharply pointed mountains of Precambrian metamorphic rock high above the glacier provided wonderful views of glacially carved ridges (arêtes), u-shaped valleys carved by tributary glaciers (hanging valleys), and various forms of glacial sediment (moraines). In front of the glacier, we noted the small island recently unveiled by the retreating glacier. Numerous icebergs produced by recent calving formed a sea of small bergs that shifted in the strong currents emanating from subglacial rivers. Kittiwakes gathered to feed on the fish brought to the surface by turbulence and the mixing of salt and fresh water where the rivers entered the fjord.
The National Geographic Endeavour departed Liefdefjorden and headed north toward Moffen Island as we gathered for cocktail hour in the lounge. We reached Moffen about 21:30 and enjoyed watching a group of walrus hauled out on the beach. The National Geographic Endeavour then turned east toward Hinlopen Strait.
