Lake Eva

Early this morning the Sea Lion continued her passage south in Chatham Strait. Morning mist hung over the straits obscuring the mountains of Baranof Island off of the starboard side of our vessel. It was a typical early fall day in Southeast Alaska. There were clouds, soft squalls of rain and outbreaks of sun, all changing the light falling on water and land. Our expedition leader, Michelle, announced that this morning we'd explore the northeast section of Baranof Island at Lake Eva and later the waters of Chatham Strait.

This walk was unique in its location in old growth forest. Landing on the beach at an extreme low tide provided an inkling of just what could be discovered as we entered the forest. Remnants of salmon had made their way to the edge of the tidal zone. Eagle feathers littered the shoreline and the air carried the scent of fecundity, and the seasonal changes of summer into fall.

Under the cover of the canopy of a temperate coastal rain forest, we could hear the rain as a delicate backdrop to our hike. We found, in great profusion, chicken of the forest or as several of our companions like to call it, “chicken wood.” This is a lacey shelf fungus of the brightest neon orange, obviously at peak season. To the delight of all hikers the old growth forest of Lake Eva was awash in many species of mushroom.

The fall in Southeast Alaska brings the return of many species of salmon to their natal streams, a time of abundance in the Pacific Northwest. Arriving at the top of the falls we were all silent, as we gazed down at the waters of two large pools and saw thousands of fish… schooling, waiting, jumping, and staging for the final event of their lives. They would build a redd, or nest, for several thousand salmon eggs and then both the female and male fish would spawn and die. Their bodies would provide nourishment for bears, eagles, even the forest vegetation around the river and lake. We gave thanks, leaving our well-wishes on several eagle feathers, casting these over the schooling salmon, watching as the current carried the feathers out towards the rapids.

The light dimmed as a fresh squall made its way over Baranof Island. It was time to return to the Sea Lion. Back through the protection of the forest we walked arriving on a windy beach to waiting Zodiacs, ready to ferry everyone back on board a warm ship, where dry clothes and hot tea and coffee were anxiously anticipated.

Our afternoon was spent exploring Chatham Strait, with a stop at Kasnyku Falls. The Second Mate took our vessel in for a very close and personal look as cascades of water fell several hundred feet into the sea! A last picture of water, land, wind, sunlight coming and going and the ever present shades of gray on gray with shades of dark green reminding us of the subtle beauty that Southeast Alaska has presented each day of our all too short journey exploring its waters ways.