Isla Carmen & Isla Santa Catalina. Sea of Cortez, Baja California

We are welcomed on our first morning in the Sea of Cortez by bow-riding common dolphins. Cutting back and forth in our bow wave, these strikingly patterned dolphins leapt clear of the water and gave shrill gleeful whistles. The molten rising morning sun glistened on their backs. Herman Melville called them “lads before the wind” and they lived up to their epithet. Their adventuresome frolic set the tone for the day.

After cruising along Isla Carmen, we left the dolphins and turned south to Isla Catalina; one of the great biological treasure troves of these “American Galápagos” Putting ashore in a sheltered cove, many set out to explore the surprising desert gardens. Recent subtropical storms have allowed much of the vegetation to put out new leaves and present a luxuriant green flush. Palo Verde, Palo Adan, jojoba, mesquites and elephant trees were all flush with foliage. Mistletoes exploded like fire crackers, and many bushes held nodding blossoms. The forest of giant columnar cardon cacti was swollen and the endemic variety of giant barrel cactus stretched high in the sky. Many desert denizens were observed taking advantage of the sudden largess. Costa’s hummingbirds flitted about the mistletoe flowers. Gila woodpeckers scolded from the cathedral like cardons. Pyrrhuloxias pursued equally colorful butterflies. Many saw flashes of the turquoise speckled side-blotched lizard, another form restricted to this island, which is also home to the only rattle less rattle snake species.

Our afternoon at Catalina also afforded an opportunity to explore the sub-tidal marvels by snorkeling the rocky shoreline. Below in the clear water, clouds of rainbow-hued Cortex wrasses darted, puffer fish plodded, giant damsels circled, and striking blue, orange and white, Cortex angel fish looked on regally. Along the rocky shores, blue-footed boobies and brown pelicans looked on, seemingly amused by our own free-diving frolic.