Tracy Arm, Southeast Alaska
It was November of 1879 when John Muir first entered the waterway that was later named Tracy Arm. He described only one tidewater glacier at the end of the long, winding fjord. Today there are two tidewater glaciers that cascade down from the Stikine Icefield into separate fingers at the head of the inlet. They had once coalesced to form the single glacier that Muir had seen, but have since retreated back to their present locations. The retreat continues – especially in the south finger, which was choked with ice this morning, evidence of recent accelerated calving activity. The north finger, on the other hand, was relatively quiet and ice-free when we arrived. We decided to take Zodiac tours to the face of Sawyer Glacier in the north finger. The morning was cool yet again sunny and we enjoyed fresh air as we approached the glacier, passing stark young waterfalls that poured over naked rock cliffs. A few remaining harbor seals stared at us with big dark eyes and we watched what seemed like the last Arctic terns heading south after their breeding season on the bare rock and gravel exposed by the receding glacier. Sunlight was just reaching the majestic face of the glacier when the river of ice awoke from its temporary slumber and pieces started to fall with thundering resound. We were thrilled to witness these calvings from such (safe) proximity during our short visit here, and at the same time we were awed and humbled by the grandeur of the pristine wilderness that surrounded us.
We snaked our way back down the narrow fjord, recalling the words of John Muir from over 100 years ago:
“…the scenery seemed at every turn to become more lavishly fruitful in forms as well as more sublime in dimensions – snowy falls booming in splendid dress; colossal domes and battlements and sculptured arches of a fine neutral gray tint, their bases laved by the blue fiord water… and glaciers above all… sweeping in grand majesty from high mountain fountains...” John Muir
We saw Tracy Arm much the same as did Muir. How fortunate for us and for others to come, that this land of superlatives, which yields to powerful forces of nature, has been protected and currently remains relatively untouched and unchanged by the activities of human civilization.
It was November of 1879 when John Muir first entered the waterway that was later named Tracy Arm. He described only one tidewater glacier at the end of the long, winding fjord. Today there are two tidewater glaciers that cascade down from the Stikine Icefield into separate fingers at the head of the inlet. They had once coalesced to form the single glacier that Muir had seen, but have since retreated back to their present locations. The retreat continues – especially in the south finger, which was choked with ice this morning, evidence of recent accelerated calving activity. The north finger, on the other hand, was relatively quiet and ice-free when we arrived. We decided to take Zodiac tours to the face of Sawyer Glacier in the north finger. The morning was cool yet again sunny and we enjoyed fresh air as we approached the glacier, passing stark young waterfalls that poured over naked rock cliffs. A few remaining harbor seals stared at us with big dark eyes and we watched what seemed like the last Arctic terns heading south after their breeding season on the bare rock and gravel exposed by the receding glacier. Sunlight was just reaching the majestic face of the glacier when the river of ice awoke from its temporary slumber and pieces started to fall with thundering resound. We were thrilled to witness these calvings from such (safe) proximity during our short visit here, and at the same time we were awed and humbled by the grandeur of the pristine wilderness that surrounded us.
We snaked our way back down the narrow fjord, recalling the words of John Muir from over 100 years ago:
“…the scenery seemed at every turn to become more lavishly fruitful in forms as well as more sublime in dimensions – snowy falls booming in splendid dress; colossal domes and battlements and sculptured arches of a fine neutral gray tint, their bases laved by the blue fiord water… and glaciers above all… sweeping in grand majesty from high mountain fountains...” John Muir
We saw Tracy Arm much the same as did Muir. How fortunate for us and for others to come, that this land of superlatives, which yields to powerful forces of nature, has been protected and currently remains relatively untouched and unchanged by the activities of human civilization.
