Isla Iguana, Panama

Since starting the voyage, our timings and activities have been dictated by the Panama Canal Authorities and their complex logistical puzzle. With our introduction to the Pacific Ocean, the expedition part of our voyage can really begin. As a welcome change to the rigorous timings of the Panama Canal, today became a free form exercise in lounging, snorkeling and bird watching. Today only two times mattered: Lunch time and all aboard.

Using the sugar-sand beach as our headquarters, we wandered the island’s trails to watch magnificent frigate birds play out a mating ritual thousands of years old. The sea birds nest here in massive numbers and their unique silhouettes were a constant element during an idyllic day. Between our shady siestas and bird watching forays, the warm waters surrounding Isla Iguana were our azure playground for watching bluechin parrotfish and other colorful reef fishes. Using a waterproof point and shoot camera, I was able to capture footage of camouflage, skittish or just plain unusual reefdwellers. The highlights of our dive were either the gaping maw of panamic moray eels or the rainbow colors of dorid nudibranch (sea slug).

Satiated with sunbathing and aching for a cool mixed drink, we broke down our beach camp and weighed anchor for tomorrow’s operation. As luck would have it our excitement would reach a new peak this evening. There is no better way to interrupt a historical presentation than with a whale sighting. However, this was not an ordinary sighting. The Captain changed course 180 degrees as we scanned the wind-blown water. We encountered long, sleek black bodies with slightly curved dorsal fins traveling and breathing in unison. Scattered around the horizon we watching one of the most interesting and intense cetaceans, false killer whales. Our singular day full of relaxation and sun ended with a hurried rush to the bow for a viewing of a seldom-seen dolphin. Expedition travel at its best.