Baranof Island
This morning the National Geographic Sea Lion entered the largest bay on the east coast of Baranof Island and explored one of its three arms. Early in the morning, the south arm of Kelp Bay was a sight to behold. Threaded by mist, it foreshadowed the theme of the day. Ever changing low clouds danced between peak and valley on the most mountainous island of the archipelago. In the path of brown bears, we explored the meadows adjacent to the forest and found evidence of fishing bruins (tracks of both sow and cub) leaving salmon carcasses in the wake of their fall feed and gorging. With no shortage of mud and wet spots, we tracked river otter and found a beaver lodge on the fringes of river and forest. Leaving the low grow of the coastal meadow we entered the forest and were rewarded by the dominant understory of blueberries on the vine! Such an amazing space, the temperate Tongass rainforest, the dappled light shining through the canopy of spruce and hemlock, the girth of trees and pristine nature!
While some explored the forest periphery, others paddled over a dynamic world more concealed. At water level, kayakers were close to the life that helps fuel the world of Southeast Alaska. Salmon jumped en route to their final destiny. They inevitably would feed the worlds of bears, birds, fish, humans and trees, that are so closely intertwined and dependent on their health. Zodiac cruisers gently combed the coast in awe of the quantity of salmon, bald eagles and the quietude and magnitude of the great space that is Alaska!
Further down the “waterfall coast” of Baranof, we visited the impressive waterfalls of Kasnyku, where we spotted river otters along the rocky shoreline. An afternoon program on marine mammals was followed by an amazing entry into Red Bluff Bay, where we found dancing brown bears.
Two bruins wrestled among the relics of a period bygone. We learned that this area has not only been used over the years by bears, but that is has an interesting industrious past as well. The islands of Southeast Alaska were once populated with people working in canneries and herring reduction plants, marked by the ruins that dot the shores of Red Bluff Bay.
Further on down the fiord we saw another bear; combined with the evening light and solar disc penetrating through a heavy mist, it was the perfect recap for the day. The wild spaces of Alaska will long leave impressions on our hearts and souls.
