Elfin Cove and Inian Islands
Early this morning the National Geographic Sea Lion pulled anchor and cruised towards ominous skies over northern Chichagof Island. With some exciting swell near the opening of Cross Sound (where the Pacific Ocean spills into the northern entrance of the Inside Passage) we set our course for Elfin Cove to visit a bush community by the sea. While Alaska has fewer roads than Vermont, anything off the road system is considered to be “bush” Alaska. With the seacoast that IS Southeast Alaska, boats and floats (planes) are the only ways to get around. Before lunch, a resident of this small fishing enclave, Mary Jo Lord Wild, came to the ship to share a little about what it’s like living in a community of 12 winter residents! On the ground we explored this unique boardwalk community and contemplated a life so far removed.
After lunch we repositioned and dropped anchor in the Hobbit Hole, which would become base for exploration of the rich environs of the Inian Islands. Not far from the ship we saw our first marine mammal…a beloved yet nasty weasel! The sea otters actively aerated their fur after diving in the kelp forests searching for crab, clam or urchin. Mothers with pups surfaced side by side and one interaction eluded mating behavior, as one individual pulled the head of another and screams of tough love emanated from the kelp. While it was tough to leave the species that helps tell the story of Alaska’s history, we felt excited by the prospects of the shores around the bend. Soon we were in the company of inquisitive and playful Steller sea lions who escorted us to their lair (haul out) of restful space. Lounging on the rocks, we were impressed with their immense size, both in and out of water! The largest species of eared pinniped, we were happy to be in a Zodiac (vs kayak) after seeing the size of their canines! Cruising around the islands we could feel the richness of this place from the green (phyto/zooplankton rich) waters to the abundance of marine mammal life!
