Ideal Cove & Petersburg
Dark clouds lifted off distant tree-covered mountains and broke open overhead. A very different environment revealed itself to us-- that of the classic temperate rainforest. Waves gently lapped the sides of the National Geographic Seal Lion as it rested peacefully in Ideal Cove on the east side of Mitkof Island. Here, we comfortably awaited breakfast and our first opportunity to go ashore and to explore this new and exciting place.
On land, we were immediately welcomed into a grand, old-growth forest. A boardwalk further eased our passage into this magical, moss-laden paradise. The naturalists introduced us to many of the forest plants, many of which are edible. Snacking along the way on blueberries, a few remaining salmon berries, red huckleberries and even the leaves of the clasping leaf twisted stalk, we listened to stories of the forest’s evolution. We learned that this particular forest is a relatively old forest featuring enormous Sitka spruce, a rich understory and the presence of a kind of moss that quite possibly will lead to the forest’s demise, sphagnum moss. This moss acts like a sponge and causes the forest floor to become overly waterlogged and, in turn, the trees may soon topple over. Eventually, the forest may become a bog or muskeg, as it is called in Alaska.
Later, in Petersburg many of us toured this climax environment extensively. Just across Wrangle Narrows on Kupreanof Island, we walked along another boardwalk that led through a forest and into a large bog. Here, we learned that sphagnum moss is absorbent; it keeps dead and dying plants from decomposing and makes for a very acidic and nutrient deficient environment. Consequently, many of the plants growing in the bog cannot subsist on nutrients in the ground. They rely completely on rainwater and the acquisition of nutrients by unique means such as carnivory. A tiny plant called the round-leaved sundew was most impressive. The way in which it acquires its nutrients is by catching insects. We observed this first hand. Dewy spikes obscured the remains of insects such as mosquitoes burrowed in the centers of their tiny round leaves.
We also enjoyed this pleasant and sunny afternoon wandering the streets of Petersburg. Friendly shopkeepers and busy anglers made for a very authentic Southeast Alaskan experience.
