Deception Island & Lindblad Cove

After two days on the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula in the Weddell Sea, an overnight transit saw us arriving at the west side of the Peninsula at the volcanic island of Deception. The National Geographic Explorer entered the flooded caldera and headed ashore to explore the remains of the abandoned whaling station and research base on the island. Both were significantly impacted by volcanic activity around 1970 and we were fortunate to hear first-hand accounts of these events from Rod Ledingham. The whaling station is a sad reminder of a time when the natural resources of Antarctica were over-exploited and evidence that the ocean around the Antarctic Peninsula is not a pristine environment.

In the afternoon we headed south across the Bransfield Strait towards the Antarctic Peninsula. It was immediately apparent that, despite past exploitation, these waters are today rich waters for whales with the distant blows of many humpback whales visible. There were also many feeding flocks of Antarctic fulmars and other seabirds in the vicinity. Careful watching revealed that were not just humpback whales present, but also fin and Minke whales.

As we entered Charcot Bay heading for our destination of the Lindblad Cove, we encountered more humpback whales and stopped to spend time with these giants of the ocean that may grow up to 15 meters long. There were numerous animals feeding close to the surface and we were treated to a spectacular display of lunge feeding close to the vessel and diving, raising their flukes above the water as they did so. Conditions for whale watching and photography could scarcely have been better.

As well as enjoying the experience, we were also able to contribute to the knowledge of these animals. Each animal can be recognized by the shape of the fluke and the unique pattern on the underside of the fluke. A catalogue of known animals is maintained by the College of the Atlantic in Bar Harbor, Maine. In this way, the movement of these animals from feeding grounds around the Antarctic Peninsula to breeding grounds of the west coast of South America can be documented. Other information such as population size and longevity can also be determined. After encounters such as this, we contribute our images to their database – a great way to enjoy an excellent wildlife spectacle and at the same time help to increase our understanding of these animals.