Sunshine started to softly break as we boarded our coach this morning en route to Culloden Battlefield and Clava Cairns. Graham, our local driver, took us on a scenic tour of his hometown Inverness and pointed out many of its finer and more elegant features. As we neared Culloden Battlefield, Steve, our expedition leader, took over the commentary and gave us sufficient background information regarding Bonnie Prince Charlie and the failed Jacobite cause so that we could make better sense of what we were about to learn in the interpretation centre. This is a new purpose-built building which uses some very sophisticated audio and visual systems to help visitors understand the importance of the battle and to really get into the hearts and minds of the major figures on both sides. We shall encounter more Jacobite history in the following days.
A short drive took us back a long way in time as we approached the three megalithic burial chambers known as Clava Cairns. Here Steve explained what little we actually know about these enormous rock monuments and the sparse details we have of their dedicated builders. Even without understanding their purpose, part of which involved the setting of the sun on the Winter Solstice, it was nonetheless a very atmospheric and evocative place to visit.
During lunch Lord of the Glens slipped her ropes at Muirtown Locks and headed west into the Caledonian Canal. Our voyage had begun! Soon we were leaving the man-made part of the canal and entering into mysterious Loch Ness. David, our photo instructor, gave a talk, “An Introduction to Expedition Photography,” which very timeously ended as the ship slowed down and drew close to the ruins of Urquhart Castle, standing solemnly on the shores of the loch. A great photo stop. Keeping in the photographic theme, Jim Richardson, National Geographic photographer, then gave a talk on the islands of the Hebrides richly illustrated with many of his own photographs. Jim clearly has a passion for both the Hebrides and for photography and the combination works beautifully.
We arrived at Fort Augustus in the late afternoon and some of us braved the changeable weather by taking to kayaks for a paddle along part of the Caledonian Canal. Many of the rest of us opted for a short guided historical walk through this ancient and tiny village with Konia. Much of its history is linked with the canal but also the Jacobites. Clearly a theme is starting to develop along the route of our itinerary.
In the evening after dinner a short stroll was called for by a few of our fellow ship mates and Fort Augustus is just such a perfect and picturesque little place to do this. And this was just the first day! What else lies ahead?
