The morning’s first light found us approaching another palm-lined shore, a sight familiar to all tropical explorers. Ahead lay Papua New Guinea, the fourth nation of our voyage. As the sky grew brighter the National Geographic Orion cruised into Buka Channel, on her way to the small city of the same name. What might have been our berth was occupied by a Chinese bulk freighter loading copra, so Captain Taylor kept the ship maneuvering in the outer channel and we went ashore in the Zodiacs.
We were met at the pier by our mini-buses and set out immediately on our tour. The first stop was at the Government House, where the local parliament sits. Buka is the temporary capitol of the Autonomous Region of Bougainville, which was declared at the end of the recent civil war as part of a peace treaty brokered by New Zealand. Although it is currently still a part of Papua New Guinea, a referendum on independence is expected to be held in 2015. Sitting in the legislator’s chairs, we heard the story of the conflict and recent efforts to leave this difficult period behind and move the region into a peaceful future.
Our next stop was a small botanical garden where we saw a number of unusual species of tropical plants, including a lovely little ginger flower. We also had a quick lesson in chewing betel nut and a chance to try some of this popular mild drug for ourselves.
Another short ride in the vans brought us to a pleasant village just outside the main town. Here we were welcomed with a wonderful parade of dancers and musicians who led us through a ceremonial arch to a small performance arena defined by a ring of comfortable chairs. After a short speech by the chief and the singing of the national anthems of PNG and Bougainville by a children’s choir we were treated to a wonderful sing-sing, the traditional welcoming festivities that are common throughout the region. One costumed troop after another took their turn in the center of the square, men, women and children all participating in a delightful variety of rhythmic music and dancing. Fresh coconuts were cut for us so that we could enjoy the sweet water within and after the performance we had a chance to look over a small market of local handicrafts. All too soon it was time to return to our ship; the people of Buka had made us very welcome and we were sad to go, but it was time to get underway toward more adventures in Melanesia.
