After a remarkably gentle crossing of the Drake Passage, we found ourselves in awe of the enormous icebergs all around the ship this morning. Set against a leaden grey sky, the blue hues in the ice looked superb. It is early season (springtime) on the Antarctic Peninsula. The phytoplankton has not yet bloomed, making for gin-clear seas and allowing for spectacular Zodiac cruises. We saw down into the sea clearly and observed submerged parts of icebergs. Some of us were lucky enough to hear the otherworldly song of a male leopard seal as he attempted to woo a mate in a narrow channel around Spert Island. We observed both killer whales and humpback whales in close quarters. This allowed us to capture useful scientific data to aid in photo-identification research. Scientists track the movements and longevity of whales using their naturally-occurring, unique markings. This evening, we are cruising gently down the Gerlache Strait as humpbacks spout and fluke in all directions.
2/20/2024
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Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.
