A voyage to Antarctica is complex in its planning and execution. Weather, ice conditions, and wildlife sightings all contribute to or can complicate an expedition. During these past 10 days, our expedition to the Antarctica Peninsula was a great success as we visited different areas, encountered amazing sights, and enjoyed wonderful experiences. We began in the South Shetland Islands, some of the youngest islands off the coast of Antarctica, then ventured into the Weddell Sea, the cold and dry side of the peninsula. From there we moved south to the wetter-snowier side and found amazing fast ice or sea ice attached to land that we were actually able to walk on and kayak from. National Geographic Explorer then went further south to seek out more incredible scenery in the Lemaire Channel only to be pushed back by the large amounts of ice just south of the channel. Our island and water navigation the next few days was fruitful with penguin colonies and whale sightings. From there we came back across the Drake Passage and into the Beagle Channel made famous by Darwin’s voyage on the channel’s namesake. We were able to view Cape Horn where the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans meet. Then it was an easy passage to back from where we started in Ushuaia, Argentina. The guests on our expedition have different motivations for traveling to the Great White Continent—some come for wildlife viewing, others to see their seventh continent, still others for the ice. One of our companions was on a family pilgrimage to honor another family member who had dreamt of visiting this singular place. Her message reminds us of the distilled truth that is inspired by places of wonder and beauty.
2/20/2024
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Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.