At six o’clock the gentle voice of our expedition leader came over the speakers to announce humpback whales just ahead. Puffy spouts lingered in the calm air, sleek backs rolled at the surface, and cameras snapped as immense tails rose almost in slow motion before descending to the depths. We had reached Holkham Bay, the entrance to the Tracy Arm/Ford’s Terror Wilderness, where we planned to spend most of our day.
After breakfast the anchor dropped in William’s Cove. We spent the morning exploring the temperate rain forest by foot and by paddling kayaks in the quiet bay. An intensely blue chunk of glacial ice had run aground in the shallows and provided a stunning focal point for those in kayaks. Hikers ducked into the lush forest where bear trails threaded between tall hemlocks and spruces, luxuriant ferns, and prickly devil’s club. A few plants already displayed autumn colors, a hint of the end of summer that comes early in this part of the world.
Once everyone was back on board, our photo instructor gave a presentation to provide suggestions for those with cameras of all types and sizes as we continued deeper into the fiord. National Geographic Sea Bird cruised beneath towering majestic cliffs shaped by glacial ice. It was like being a part of a postcard scene. Over the PA came the word that we could see mountain goats from the decks. What a surprise to see a female and her kid right at water level, obtaining salt by licking the intertidal rocks. They seemed unconcerned about the ship, so we managed to get excellent views. Perhaps we looked just like another iceberg drifting by.
The officers located a good spot to drop the inflatable boats, and we bundled up and headed off in the expedition landing craft towards the face of South Sawyer. Like so many worldwide, this glacier is thinning and retreating. The frozen face was jumbled with ragged spires known as seracs. We remained a safe distance away and waited and listened. Glacier watching takes patience, but it can pay off. We witnessed crashing ice, splashes, and sounds like gunshots. Unimpressed harbor seals lay scattered about like sausages in the distance. An unexpected boat full of Vikings drove up and fortunately seemed friendly. The occupants even offered hot cocoa!
Eventually the time came to return to our mother ship and retrace our route back along the former path of the glacier that once filled what is now the spectacular fjord known as Tracy Arm.
