Happy Halloween!
We had a short navigation in the wee hours of the morning from Santa Cruz to our anchorage off the coast of the small uplifted island of South Plaza. Following breakfast we disembarked on a cement dock where we paused to marvel at the myriad wildlife we could observe right from the landing site. Young sea lions swirled in the shallows or played on the lava rocks, huge bulls barked as they patrolled and females rested or nursed their doe-eyed pups. Brilliant red Sally light-foot crabs fed with two clawed eagerness on the exposed algae all along the shore, and large yellow land iguanas basked in the cool early sun. Swallow-tailed gulls, lovely nocturnal seabirds with color coordinated red eye-rings and red legs and feet, were dozing after a night of feeding at sea.
We hiked along a rocky trail, counting (and photographing) land iguanas by the dozens and admiring the incredible contrasting colors around us: deep red sesuvium, a succulent ground cover, green and brown tree cactus, yellow land iguanas and the sparkling azure sea. A spectacular landscape! Along the cliff edge sea birds soared and floated on the updraft and we shot picture after picture trying to capture their breath-taking beauty and elegance. We hiked on lava rocks that were smooth and white; hundreds of sea lions dragging across the rocks as they moved inland for the night had polished them.
This morning we took time to observe the details of life on this low, arid island: a tiny puff of a chick snuggled under a gull, a newly born sea lion pup with the placenta nearby, a cactus finch hopping among sharp Opuntia spines, a deep glossy blue striated heron stalking crabs. The weather was perfect – sunny and breezy - and we had a marvelous outing! By the time we returned to the ship, by now rather hot from the sun but utterly delighted with all we had seen, we were glad barman Octavio had left brownies and juice in the reception area for us!
Our afternoon began - following siesta, of course – with kayaking and snorkeling options. Aura took the kayakers behind the island of Santa Fe where they were protected from the wind and could paddle along easily admiring the sea lions, sea birds and scenery. Sofia and I took snorkelers into the bay and we found at least a dozen species of fish, many in large feeding schools, a few sea lions, rays and, best of all, sea turtles. We swam for an hour and covered a long distance and with the sun out the shallow bay was a fantastic turquoise color.
Two groups went out for the afternoon hikes. Aura took the intrepid rock-hoppers and they followed a dry runoff boulder trail then climbed a cliff where the view back to the bay and the anchored ship was gorgeous. They found the endemic land iguana that is unique to this island. Sofia took a group in to land on a beach where they watched an impressive battle between two bull sea lions. They dried their feet and put on their shoes and followed a path through a grove of magnificent cactus trees and then continued on inland. They too found a pale Santa Fe land iguana. At dusk as the hikers returned to the ship we observed about twenty good sized white-tipped reef sharks in the shallow just off the beach.
Guests, staff and crew came in costumes to our evening gathering and we had a lot of laughs. I was dressed as Snow White and was escorted by my seven dwarves. Our Captain made a handsome pirate and headwaiter Angel was really frightening as a vampire. After dinner we turned the music up loud and danced. I must confess that, with the pace of this expedition, I don’t know where these ladies found the energy tonight to dance! But I certainly do understand – and share - the “joie de vivre” that everyone on board is experiencing as we explore these magical islas encantadas!
