A special early edition of the Morning Update filled PA speakers all around the ship as the call of “Thar she blows!” announced the sighting of humpback whales just after sunrise on the Hecate Strait.
And so our day’s plan got put on hold so that everyone on board could behold such a sight. Not just one, but possibly 12 or more humpbacks exhibiting a most unusual feeding behavior that had them using their tail flukes slapping or stirring the ocean and then lunge feeding near the surface; apparently the prey was krill. The whale ballet was truly impressive, and there seemed to be more than enough food to go around! Bad day to be a krill.
A pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins was in the area as well. Slashing through the water right next to National Geographic Sea Lion, they sped off in search of breakfast nearby.
Once we arrived at SGang Gwaay, we were met by three Watchmen, Haida representatives responsible for watching over the island and interpreting Haida history and culture for visitors. The Wailing Island Town, or SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, is a sacred site and found in a sheltered bay on the east side of the island. In 1981, the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada recognized the significance of the village and designated it as a national historic site. SGang Gwaay Llnagaay is one of the best examples in the world of a traditional Northwest Coast First Nations village site. It is the last village site on SGang Gwaay to be occupied on a full-time basis. There are many memorial, frontal and mortuary poles here and its canoe runs are still visible in front of the village.
We also had time to get out and explore by expedition craft. Nearby we found a small haul-out island being used by three species of pinnipeds: California sea lions, Steller (northern) sea lions and spotted harbor seals. With the different species in close proximity it was easier to observe the differences in physical size and characteristics. Multiple bird species were also sighted including bald eagles, black oystercatchers and pigeon guillemots.
The day was capped off with another look at humpback whales that reappeared in almost exactly the same location as earlier in the day. But by sunset they had apparently eaten their fill and had more time to be curious about us and our little ship of exploration.
