This morning, soon after dawn, Captain Jaramillo dropped the anchor of the National Geographic Islander in Academy Bay, of Santa Cruz Island. We shared this harbor with a variety of yachts, boats and ships, of which most are part of the tourism fleet—plus there were a few fishing and patrol boats. Santa Cruz is home to more than 20,000 inhabitants, and here we find the headquarters of both the Charles Darwin Research Station and the Galapagos National Park. In the Zodiacs we motored to the main town dock, took a short bus ride to the entrance of the Station and Park, and then walked about a half mile to reach the tortoise breeding center.
Our naturalist guides Jonathan, Greg and Patricio told us about the Park and Station’s joint and successful breeding and repatriation project that has been ongoing since the 70s and has saved several species of giant tortoises from the brink of extinction. We learned of the 15 adult tortoises that were brought from Española and have been breeding in captivity for the past 50 years. There are now more than 2000 young tortoises which have been released back into the wild on Española. We particularly enjoyed seeing Super Diego, whose success story (as one can guess from his name, he has been a very prolific breeder…) by far outshines the sad story of the now dead Lonesome George.
Following our visit to the science center, we strolled along the coastal road through town, stopping to shop in the small, bright boutiques. The day was growing hot and humid, and so a cold glass of pineapple juice at The Rock Café was welcome. We gathered here and rested before boarding the buses for a drive into the lush green agricultural highlands. A dozen guests, with naturalist Greg, road bikes three miles through the rolling hills (mostly rolling uphill!) and we all met at the family run “El Trapiche” farm where coffee and sugar cane are grown and processed. We willingly tasted and tested their products: fresh cheese dipped in molasses, bananas ripening on the stem, strong, aromatic coffee, sweet freshly pressed sugar cane juice and fiery sugar cane liquor.
Another 20 minute drive took us to a restaurant where we had a hearty grilled chicken lunch, and enjoyed the privilege to hear world renown nature photographer Tui DeRoy tell us about her early life in Galapagos. After lunch, we drove down the southwestern slopes of the island and found dozens of tortoises grazing, resting, strolling and even mating in lush green pastures! There were several HUGE males, and a couple tortoises were contentedly soaking in a muddy green pool. We took countless photographs and explored a lava tunnel.
Back on board, we gathered in the lounge and enjoyed hearing about tomorrow’s plans, and then viewing Dexter’s excellent video preview. After a delicious buffet dinner, the folkloric group EcoArte played and danced for – and with! – us, and by 9:30 p.m. we had all gone happily - and wearily - off to bed. This has been yet another full and interesting day in Las Islas Encantadas.
