It was a full day to say the least! Christmas Eve was busy from start to finish. First thing this morning we walked to the giant tortoise breeding center located at the far eastern end of town. It was Wednesday, therefore food was being placed in all the corrals, and the tortoises were skipping with joy as they made their way towards the taro leaves. In just a few hours, they can reduce what looks like huge piles of vegetation to just bits and pieces, here and there. The young hatchlings get a special salad (not really); the same leaves, but the tender, younger leaves, cut into smaller pieces, which is easier for their little beaks to grasp hold of.
By the time everyone was making their way into town, the sun was starting to come out, and the temperature started to climb. The fishermen had brought in quite a catch to their dock. Lobster is in season, and there were some rather large (and still lively) individuals in crates. Alongside the concrete counter slicing and fileting was taking place, sea lions were begging the vendors for scraps of fish-skin, as were the brown pelicans and lava gulls. Meanwhile the (human) locals were choosing their cuts from quite a selection of white fish, bass, and groupers for the most part.
It was with relief that we finally made it up into the highlands where the temperature wasn’t quite so warm. The bicycle riders made it in good time to the sugar-cane farm, and so met up with everyone else to try the roasted coffee beans, molasses, brown sugar, bananas (ripe, plucked from the stem), and, of course, the “moonshine” or “hooch.” Produced locally, it was (and still is occasionally), the choice addition for local celebrations. Added to cane juice or coffee, it perks one up after a full morning!
Lunch was marvelous (and dessert spectacular) in an ambiance that, not knowing, one would never guess was the Galapagos Islands. Lush and green, hammocks hung from an enormous ficus tree, it is a bit other-worldly. But on we went…there were more tortoises to see! Up the road, on private land (but the tortoises didn’t know that), huge tortoises wandered and grazed. Santa Cruz Island has giant tortoises with a domed carapace, meaning the shell falls low over the head and neck. There is no selective reason to lift the head high—all food lies low and abundant and its easier to crash through thick vegetation as well. It seemed like the entire area was filled with giant males—few females to be seen—perhaps already headed to the lowlands in preparation for egg-laying. When the rains begin, the males will shortly follow. They know where to go to encounter the females!
Once back in the lowlands, some remained in town for a few minutes more (that one last item to buy before Christmas?), but most returned home to shower, change, relax, and reminisce about the day, a drink in hand.
For the little time before dinner, I spoke about the importance of science in Galapagos—how alongside the national park, researchers from the Charles Darwin Foundation fill a necessary role in order to protect the islands. Now, more than ever, we must be on top of all the threats to the integrity of the islands. Much has been done, and successfully, but we cannot afford to let down our guard for one day, one minute. As long as there are people concerned and interested in preserving these islands, we can vanquish the dangers. Our aim is to teach and expose the unique loveliness, and fragility, of these islands. I want everyone to fall in love with the Galapagos world, as I have. We only protect what we understand and love (so the saying goes).
After dinner, music was brought into the dining room and later, into the lounge. Wonderful music played by talented musicians from the local population. Wind instruments from the Andes culture, but played with island flair.
What a unique Christmas Eve!
