The Zodiacs made their way over to the Galapagos National Park dock right after breakfast. It was to be a full day – so much to see! The first order of business was the giant tortoise breeding center where various species and/or subspecies of giant tortoises are being bred in captivity. The long-term goal is to re-populate islands with enough native tortoises to create viable and self-sustaining populations. In the meantime, the National Park is also working towards restoring these islands by removing introduced organisms wherever possible. Sometimes it seems an uphill battle, but determined and stubborn they are, both the National Park professionals and Charles Darwin Foundation experts who advise on management decisions.
There was a bit of free time to wander through town afterwards. The fisherman’s wharf was a particularly exciting stop along the way – what with a fresh catch of fish being brought in, and all the locals looking for a piece of the action. Frigate birds, pelicans and humans all lined up for their turn at the filets, some more orderly than others.
Finally we were ready to set off up the mountain. An intrepid group of bikers left first, followed soon enough by the rest, all of us headed towards a local coffee and sugar-cane farm. Obviously we had a chance to taste-test the final products, but it was an eye-opener for many to see the simple lifestyle of these Galapagos residents. Still today, locals come to buy from the Cabrera family. Their reputation as producers of a fine product hold strong after two generations in the business.
Galapagos giant tortoises continued to be foremost in our minds as the buses took us even higher into the mist-shrouded highlands. One count from the bus, as we drove between our lunch-time restaurant and our afternoon destination, came to over 30 tortoises just visible from the road! This is the “cool season” for the islands, when the lowlands get as dry as they will ever get, but the highlands receive the moisture from the inversion layer rolling in regularly. So, most tortoises choose the highlands, where food is in good supply – but this comes at the sacrifice of the warmth found in the lowlands.
Santa Cruz Island is also renowned for the number of her lava tubes. Her angle of repose is almost perfect for the development of these fascinating volcanic formations. During an eruption (it’s been a while – like a few tens-of-thousands of years), streams of molten lava creep down the slopes, following the path of least resistance. The cooling outer layer forms a skin that keeps the molten innards insulated and still runny. These continue to ooze down the slope, and leave the skin behind. Eons pass after they cool, vegetation covers the lava, then one day the thin roof caves in and humans, drawn by insatiable curiosity, explore the dark depths. As we did, but with the help of electricity – wonderful! A double-layered lava tube!
By the time we returned to the ship, the camera memory cards were full and batteries drained. But enough spunk was left to enjoy the talented musical group who came to play both traditional and new songs and dances. Then, we collapsed into dreams of adventures ahead.
