The mirrored surface of the ocean reflected silver clouds above, broken only by the unobtrusive motion of our paddles. Surrounded by the spiraling limestone walls we’ve disappeared into a secluded sanctuary in the heart of Palau’s rock islands. We reach the end of a turquoise bay only to find a narrow opening leading into yet another private world. Tidal waters flow gently through the passage bathing beds of oysters with life giving nutrients.
In the not too distant past this lagoon had been an enclosed marine lake. The ceaseless exchange of tides had slowly turned minute pores into tunnels, which over time had collapsed forming these narrow channels. The current carries us into this forgotten wonderland and we’re immediately welcomed by the whooping call of a multi-colored fruit dove.
Our local guide insists the best is yet to come, so we continue on while a light mist adds an air of mystery to this tropical wonderland. Paddling beneath the overhanging branches each tree appears to be impossibly covered with a dripping menagerie of epiphytic mosses, ferns, and orchids. Pausing to smell the flowers, we notice that a fragrant white bloom has attracted the attention of a scarlet red Micronesian honeyeater. Unable to reach the enticing nectar, this creative sugar addict has neatly pecked a hole at the base of the bloom and subsequently lapped up the sweet juices with his brush shaped tongue.
Another narrow passage magically appears before our kayaks, this time winding through bends and turns before opening into a magical turquoise oasis. Rows of pink sea fans quiver in the outgoing tidal flow with their tips emerging from the surface at this extreme low tide. The sound of cascading water focuses our attention as we round a final corner. Splashing torrents of water spill from the rocks as our guide reveals Palau’s only salt water fall. The new moon tides are draining a nearby lake via subterranean tunnels and the filtered water is spilling out in a bubbly flow.
We slip into the water with masks and fins and ease our way into the gentle current. Black and white humbug dascyllus damsel fish dine on passing morsels, retreating to lime green corals as we approach. Red-eyed pajama cardinal fish warily eye a nearby crocodile fish whose highest hope is to capture his prey unaware. Delicate eight-banded butterfly fish wander in monogamous pairs on a romantic journey through the lake.
But the star of the show has yet to arrive. The group of snorkelers dissipates assuming that the bizarre goby is just a myth. And then a glimpse … a splash of color only. And then for just moment the mandarin fish makes a brief appearance. Sporting swirling waves of green and orange, trimmed with blue, the shy little dancer hovers and poses before diving out of sight.
Palau has lived up to its lofty reputation. Our Palauan guide flashes a bright smile enjoying our sense of wonder and awe. He beams with pride and boasts, “You are after all visiting the underwater Serengeti of planet Earth.”
