We spent a leisurely morning at sea sailing farther southeastward out the sprawling archipelago of the Tuamotu Islands. By midday we reached the remote atoll of Pukarua, our destination for the afternoon. We found good shelter on the leeward side of the island, just off of the small town of Marautagaroa. The divers headed out to explore the underwater world of the surrounding reef where they found plentiful healthy coral rich with tropical fishes, and many giant clams. It was a vibrant site that few other people ever have the opportunity to dive.
The rest of us headed ashore by Zodiac through a cut in the fringing reef allowing easy access to the town’s cement pier. There we were greeted warmly by the local town folk offering us welcoming flower leis, as a group of musicians strummed Polynesian tunes on their guitars and other stringed instruments. The leis were a splendid variety of local flowers and folded pieces of palm leaves. Throngs of curious children and local dogs gathered around to watch the strange festivities surrounding our arrival.
From the pier we walked through the small and tranquil town, past the church and a lovely cemetery bordered by high palms. The one main street soon led us to the far end of town where the road spilled out onto an inviting white sand beach beside the atoll’s inner lagoon. There, we enjoyed welcome dances, samples of freshly harvested coconuts, and giant clam meat with lemon juice squeezed on top. There was breadfruit roasting on the open fire pit, and shortly we were offered tastes to enjoy. Several local men practiced the classic Tuamotuan sport of throwing javelin spears at a lone coconut poised high on a raised pole. Several volunteers attempted this challenging sport, but only one local fellow was finally able to spear the coconut. Women and young girls showed off their skills at weaving palm fronds into mats, baskets and decorative balls. Then they got up and began more dancing, the elder women showing off their elegant hip gyrations as the charming children did their best to emulate their suave older mentors. There were displays of different techniques for opening and enjoying coconuts in their many forms, and plenty of merriment to go around.
In the nearby turquoise-colored lagoon, local children played and laughed in the near shore waters, and soon they were joined by many of the rest of us lured in to swim in the balmy calm lagoon. Eventually we all ambled back through the little town to the pier where our Zodiacs delivered us back to the ship just before sunset. As the tropical sun dipped to the horizon, a momentary “Green Flash” occurred, giving a final thrill to those out on deck. It was a magical close to another very magical day exploring these South Pacific islands.
