It is not an exaggeration to say that Portsmouth is one of the most important port towns in human history. As the long-time heart of the British navy, it has been the starting point of many military actions that have shaped the modern world. It is no surprise then, that as we cruised into the harbour this morning, we were surrounded by a dense assortment of fortifications and batteries of all periods, shapes and sizes. Modern battleships in varying states of repair lined the quaysides. Nestled amongst these, we caught our first glimpses of the HMS Victory – Admiral Nelson’s flagship – and the HMS Warrior – an early ironclad – before leaving the ship.
After breakfast we boarded buses to the historic dockyard. Here we were able to board the HMS Victory where it sits in dry dock. This provided a deep insight into life on board an 18th century First-Rate ship of the line. These were the largest ships of their time in a fleet, and would have been a frightening sight for an enemy navy. We walked through the cramped lower decks, which were home to a crew of 850 men, and stepped up and out onto the deck where Lord Horatio Nelson was killed by a musket shot.
Other highlights of the historic dockyard included the naval museum, and the HMS Warrior. The Warrior is one of the first two armoured frigates built by the British in the 19th century. With its engine and iron hull, this three-masted ship marks the transition from wind driven to independently powered warships, and in many ways embodies the beginning of the modern naval vessel.
After lunch we split into several groups. Some of us chose to take a leisurely stroll and explore the city of Portsmouth itself, either for its historic quality or to take advantage of its shopping district. Others chose to continue with the naval theme and visited the newly reopened Mary Rose Museum. The Mary Rose, Henry VIII’s flagship, sank in Portsmouth harbour in 1545 during the Battle of the Solent. In 1982 the wreck was raised, and after a long period of preservation was placed in another museum until the new one was developed. Due to conditions underwater, preservation of organic material is extremely good, and the museum’s collection of artefacts, ranging from cannon to barber’s tools, is exceptional both in scale and quality.
Those of us who wanted something slightly different for the afternoon opted to visit the Farlington Marshes, just outside of Portsmouth. This small nature reserve offered great views of lapwing, great crested grebe, and little egret, amongst other things. As the weather was clear, it was also just a great place for a relaxed stroll or more intensive walk between the sea and the marshland, depending on what people were in the mood for. In all, this varied range of experiences, both cultural and natural, made for an excellent start to the trip.
