We’ve joined the great annual migration. As the days grow a bit shorter and chillier, salmon runs are winding down, and flocks of birds accompany us as we sail south toward the border with British Columbia.
Low clouds cloaked the shoulders of the mountains that ring Petersburg, a picturesque Norwegian inspired fishing community tucked into the protected north end of Wrangell Narrows. Walkers joined the natural history and photo staff leading walks to the muskeg, (a habitat of peat, pond, and specialized plants), along the working docks filled with the colorful commercial fleet, and into town on “assignment” Petersburg.
Once a year, we say goodbye to our friends here, turn left after we depart the harbor, and cruise south through the whole of Wrangell Narrows. Boats, barges, and log tows were making their way in the strong currents while bald eagles perched on several of the many aids to navigation along the narrow and scenic waterway.
Perhaps the whales were listening to Flip’s talk “Among Giants” as not long after he finished sharing some wonderful stories about his life with whales, we found ourselves in the midst of a story of our own. A few blows were spotted as we neared Snow Pass, and everyone headed out to the bow with hopeful anticipation…and cameras. Suddenly we were in the midst of a group of humpback whales cooperatively feeding! This remarkable behavior is incredibly exciting to watch and to photograph. We were fortunate to have calm seas and we could often see the ring of bubbles form as it rose to the ocean’s surface and delineated a perfect circle. Open mouths of forty-ton animals burst through the middle of the net and gulped the fleeing small fishes while gulls wheeled and called and fed on the uneaten bits. We watched the astonishing behavior and listened to the trumpeting feeding calls until the light was gone and our own dinner was served. This was not a great day to be a herring in Snow Pass, but wow, what an afternoon to be on the bow of the National Geographic Sea Bird!