We awoke this morning to moderate chop and winds in Chatham Strait, but as we rounded the corner into Freshwater Bay, things quieted down to the flatwater and light breezes we've become so accustomed to. We breakfasted on eggs Benedict, lox, and all of the other options that anyone could want, before slipping into our expedition gear for the morning's activities. Our destination this morning was Pavlov Bay, where it is often possible to see brown bears feeding on salmon at a small waterfall and natural pool complex a quarter mile from the landing area on the beach. This is a wonderful protected bay from which to kayak or watch bears, and we had groups of guests opting for both options this morning.
How often have we said that nature has a wicked sense of humor? She lets you stack most of the variables in your favor, then yanks the rug out from under you! This morning two groups of guests sat patiently, and quietly waiting and watching for bears, while Julia, one of our naturalists, fed us thimbleberries she had gathered on the upper beach. We waited, and watched, but saw no bears... quite yet. But the beach at Pavlov Bay is rich with sealife, and we had a good minus tide on which to look at ghost shrimp, mottled sea stars, blue mussels, heart cockles, and a host of other amazing intertidal invertebrates. The upper beach was dominated by Pacific silverweed, yarrow, and seaside beach grasses that gave use opportunities to discuss plant adaptations to salty soils.
About five minutes after we unloaded back at the ship, nature dropped her punchline, and the call went out that there was a large brown bear on the beach–I could almost hear nature chuckling at us as we scurried about to dig out our recently stowed binoculars and cameras. An expedition was spontaneously launched to get people within viewing distance of the bear and many amazing pictures were taken.
Needless to say, the hospitality staff was accommodating and bumped lunch back to allow us time for bear viewing from the comfort of our temporary, floating home. I think we got the last laugh today!
