Today was one of those days that blow your socks off! It was a day steeped in Haida culture, from start to finish. After an early breakfast we hit the road by school bus, heading north from the Queen Charlotte City dock. The drive across the island was beautiful, with low clouds, intermittent rain and sun, a rugged coastline, and thick forest. After passing through a couple small communities, we arrived in Old Massett.
We had amazing opportunities to experience firsthand the mastery and artwork of Haida totems. Jim Hart welcomed us into his home, a beautiful longhouse overlooking the water, where art is a way of life. Everywhere was evidence of his handiwork, from sketches of screens on the walls to a massive yellow cedar carving underway beside the dining table. A totem pole stood tall in the backyard, looking out across the water. In his yard were several projects in various states of completion, including a giant red cedar totem laid on its side with the figure of a killer whale beginning to emerge from the wood. The aroma of cedar was in the air as we strolled over a sea of wood chips. A short walk away we came to a delightful Haida shop filled with beautiful artwork, prints, jewelry and woven hats. We were excited to find a bat hanging upside down on the wall of the building!
Our next stop was with Christian White, another excellent local carver. He told stories in his front yard, between two totems he had carved, before taking us into his workshop. The workshop was mind-blowing – at the door we were greeted by a massive totem laid down on its side, pencil and paint and design blossoming from the red cedar log, bringing it to life. Several elegant canoes in various states of completion filled the rest of the shop, pointed and painted paddles resting inside.
Before lunch we enjoyed a special treat when the local dance group walked into Christian's longhouse beating drums and dressed in regalia. They performed several dances, and even invited us to join in a dance for ladies and another dance for men. Both were quite popular with participants and spectators! The community cooked us lunch, bringing a huge variety of cultural and delicious foods for us to try, from salmon and halibut to herring eggs and frothed soap berries. We climbed back onto the buses, full and happy.
This evening we are crossing Hecate Strait with mild seas and dark skies.
