As our exploration approaches the halfway point of our voyage and transit the final lock in the Caledonian Canal we make the very notable environmental transition from the freshwater body of Lock Linnhe to the salty ocean, specifically the Sound of Mull. While not noticeably floating any lighter, Lord of the Glens makes her way rather speedily to our next port of call, Oban. This small town is a regional hub and through the stalwart Scottish Ferry system it connects to many of the otherwise isolated island communities along the western coast, garnering it the title of “Gateway to the Isles.” A brisk sea breeze is the extent of the weather extremes for the morning. Patches of blue sky peek through the soothing gray cloud cover as we pull alongside into the port, and practically onto the main street. Upon the ridgeline that overlooks the town there is an amphitheater, constructed between 1895 and 1902 when its benefactor, the wealthy banker John Stuart McCaig, died. Though impressive it is not known what purpose it was meant to accomplish other than as a monument of extreme cost and is locally known as McCaig’s Folly.
The fresh sea air is actually a very important factor for the main activity for the day and what Oban is most well known for and that is the whiskey distillery that resides in the center of town. The three ingredients that are allowed to be used in Scotland to make whiskey, by law, are yeast, barley and water. The water is collected from a nearby freshwater loch and the ocean air that blows over it adds a particular note of flavor to the distinctive taste of Oban whiskey. Our tour through the distillery essentially follows the whole process from raw material to finished product, displaying the precise methods and sophisticated equipment that are used. A staggering amount of variables must be taken into account by dozens of people working behind the scenes, until finally it all comes together and makes a fantastic end result. Not unlike an expedition come to think of it, though thankfully we don’t need to wait 14 years to enjoy the experience!
