This morning National Geographic Explorer sailed into Neko Harbor. Overcast skies and almost no wind made for perfect conditions to land and enjoy water sports. Lisa Kelley, our expedition leader, arranged to offer guests a variety of options for morning activities. After just having completed the highly anticipated “polar plunge” the day before, consisting of guests jumping, leaping, and diving into near-freezing water and experiencing a small dose of hyperthermia, they were now keen to try something new, like kayaking through the ice. Neko Harbor is a perfect location for such a sport, since we are sometimes visited by curious minke and humpback whales. This morning was no exception. Mid-morning a minke whale joined the kayakers and spent around 20 minutes swimming amidst them. This was a wonderful highlight for those who chose to paddle.
Guests had the choice of two activities. Half went kayaking, and the rest had a chance to visit another gentoo rookery, then hike to the peak of the surrounding 800 foot snow-covered mountains overlooking Neko Harbor. This offered spectacular 180 degree panoramic views of the bay, and also provided a first-hand experience to see and hear spectacular avalanches and ice cavings. Just as we were shuttling guests ashore there was a huge avalanche, followed 45 minutes later by a caving of the glacier. We could see and hear the waves gushing up on the shoreline.
After lunch our original landing and Zodiac cruising destination was to land at Orne Harbor, which lies in the middle of the Gerlach Strait. The harbor was iced in, but fortunately the expedition team had a “Plan B,” and we changed our afternoon landing to Cuverville Island. This is home to nearly 5,000 pairs of gentoo penguins who breed along the northern end of the island. We also admired some of the beautiful remaining icebergs in many different shapes and forms. Some guests went on Zodiac cruises, and while others walked up the 827 foot high rocky dome that makes up most of the island. On the Zodiac cruises we saw our first Weddell seals on ice. The light, fresh snow, and quality of air was magical—classic characteristics of early Antarctic season in the Northwest Antarctic Peninsula. Just as were heading back to the ship in Zodiacs the wind picked up, and we had our first taste of salt water spray. Weather here changes quickly. A great and wet ending to another perfect day in Antarctica.
