National Geographic Sea Lion departed Sitka last evening and cruised north and east through Peril Strait between Baranof and Chichagof islands. Entering Chatham Strait we turned south and entered Kelp Bay, where guests on board awoke to a lovely mist draping the trees of the Tongass National Forest. It was a good place for our first photo opportunity of the day.
Presently we were called out on deck to view a couple humpback whales that were spouting and surfacing in the area. After a few breaths they brought their tails up as they went for a deeper dive. The patterns on the underside of the flukes are unique and help researchers identify individual animals to study. The whales spend the summer in the cold nutrient-rich Alaskan waters before their long migration to Hawaii for the winter. We also spotted some harbor seals lounging on some islets, and bald eagles added to our sightings for the morning – all before breakfast.
We started to the north and filled our morning with staff introductions and various briefings. But it wasn’t long before we were urged back out on deck, as we were approaching Morris Reef, at the junction of Peril and Chatham straits, where there were MANY humpback whales! We had the thrill and privilege of watching this endangered species in the wild exhibiting a variety of natural behaviors, including cooperative bubble-net feeding. Working together, a group of humpbacks will coordinate using bubbles, sound, and their pectoral fins to concentrate schooling fish into a tight ball so that the whales can all get a good mouthful. Gulls get in on the action to pick up fish as the whales erupt at the surface in a jumble of body parts, then dive to start the process over again.
We deployed a hydrophone (underwater microphone) to hear the eerie whale vocalizations that help concentrate the fish and give us an idea of when they are ready to surface. It was very exciting to witness this spectacle and there were many chances for good photographs as we followed the action and moved from side to side on the vessel. There were discussions about “wowness” and the “wow factor.” Sometimes our words are not enough. These emotional experiences can have great impact on our lives.
As we departed, there was time for Sharon’s photography presentation and group sessions before lunch.
Our afternoon destination was Pavlof Harbor, Chichagof Island. A salmon stream leads up a waterfall to a lovely lake. Runs of salmon migrating from the ocean to their natal stream to spawn attract brown (grizzly) bears that need to “fatten up” before winter. We were not disappointed today as we approached the falls to watch the bears fishing – another great photo opportunity! Only the longer hikers made it up to and along the lake, where a swimming bear was observed. The rest of us watched the interesting bear interactions in groups from a safe distance and from kayaks and inflatable craft. The salmon link the ocean and the forest, supporting the next generation of fish with their expired bodies grown large from ocean nutrients, and feeding the bears as well as many other creatures and even the trees themselves. It’s an amazing cycle.
Back on board we had a chance to sample some Alaskan specialties during the cocktail hour, including salmon- and birch-flavored vodkas, reindeer sausage, chocolates and kelp pickles.
Recap was followed by dinner and then a presentation by Emily about sea otters to prepare and inform us for the next couple of days. We look forward to more wonderful sightings and events.
