As we departed Haida Gwaii the night before aboard National Geographic Sea Lion, we left with a hint of apprehension that a gale might be waiting for us once we began crossing the notorious Hecate Strait and Dixon Entrance. But in a serendipitous twist of fate, the gales turned to a favorable tail wind and we were pushed swiftly and smoothly into Southeast Alaskan waters.
Upon awakening, we were greeted by a pair of humpback whales that were cruising the strait in search of prey. For the next hour or so, we followed the whales as they swam lazily along, only barely raising their flukes whenever they slipped below the water’s surface. Soon it became apparent that they were heading towards a small flock of loons that were feeding on small schooling fish precariously close to shore. Then, without warning, a large line of bubbles started to appear and form a ring at the surface near where the humpbacks dove. “A bubble-net!” someone yelled. Sure enough the two whales surfaced in the middle of a perfectly formed net of bubbles. What a way to start our first day in Alaska!
We continued to watch the whales for a short while longer, but eventually it was time to leave them behind and turn our sights towards Misty Fjords. With near-vertical walls rising thousands of feet above its narrow fjords, this national monument is a striking reminder of the tectonic and glacial forces that shape Alaska. Exploring by inflatable boat and by kayak, we were afforded an intimate look at the numerous creeks and waterfalls that cascaded down through thick moss-laden riparian forests. At one point, a river otter climbed out onto shore and scurried among the rocks.
As we drifted about taking in the scenery, Sea Lion maneuvered past us and squeezed through a narrow passage, making clear how lucky we are to be plying the waters in such a nimble vessel that can visit incredible places like Misty Fjords National Monument. And that our Alaskan adventure is just beginning!
