Dawn breaks across Millennium Atoll. As the first rays of light illuminate the National Geographic Orion one lone Zodiac cuts a wake through the early morning swell. The divers head out to explore one of Enric Sala favourite dive sites, a muse for the Pristine Seas project. This is the place we envision when we think about coral reefs of a pristine past. The sharks are hunting, gliding tight above the coral searching for the fish caught out as night turns to day. Maroi wrasse move back and forth in the current. The reef fish are waking up and beginning to form their living clouds above the beautiful coral below.
The expedition team searched along the reef edge for our morning snorkel location. What they found for us was truly breathtaking. Slipping into the water from the snorkel platform we were greeted by schools of trigger fish pulsing through the water column. Edging our way closer to the reef we were met by the wall of mouths: pink and yellow anthias in such numbers that they appeared as a magic carpet flying over the coral below. Still further we ventured, between the coral heads where the waves had carved deep gutters. Riding the surge was an immense school of fish. Packed in tight between the gutters and the breaking wave’s overhead the school was only split by the regular patrols of the black tipped reef sharks. They swarmed around us as if we were an oasis of protection from the patrolling predators.
Looking through the swirling schools of vibrant fish the coral at Millennium Atoll is astounding. The colour and diversity of form combine to create an unparalleled habitat. You can’t help but feel privileged to share this place. In the midst of El Niño, predicted global bleaching, and the constant threat of illegal fishing, Millennium Atoll stands as a window into the pristine past.
After lunch, our Zodiacs headed out to explore the stunning lagoon within Millennium Atoll. The Zodiacs negotiate the narrow channels across the top of the reef crest seeking access into the deep sheltered waters within the lagoon. Zigzagging our way to the furthest edge of the atoll we landed on a secluded beach where we snorkeled over the coral gardens. The frigate birds soar the thermals above us. It’s appears as if they are watching over us as the afternoon thunder heads begin to build.
On our way back to National Geographic Orion we landed on another beach, but this one is not deserted. The remnants of an illegal fishing operation stand as a stark remind of the vulnerabilities of this remote paradise. Together with our representatives from the Kirabati government we explored a makeshift shelter, abandoned fishing gear, and proceeds of illegal fishing activity.
In stark contrast to the curtain of rain that engulfed us yesterday, this afternoon Millennium Atoll bid us farewell with a spectacular vista. The sun’s rays bouncing across the cloud bank and bathed the coconut palms in the soft afternoon flight.
