Early in the morning, around 4:30 a.m., we were woken up unexpectedly by our expedition leader’s voice: Killer whales had been spotted! The early birds enjoyed watching them for about 20 minutes. After breakfast, we sailed through the emblematic Lemaire Channel, but we left when we discovered the area’s poor visibility. Instead, we ended up in Paradise Harbor for Zodiac cruising. There we met there a sailing yacht that had crossed the Drake Passage in 4.5 days with hurricane winds! We also saw an Argentinian research station that’s manned during summertime only.
2/20/2024
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Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.