LeConte is the southernmost tidewater glacier anywhere in the northern hemisphere. Icebergs and bergie bits drift away from its face far up the winding fjord and run aground in arcs of shallow water that span the entrance to the bay where we anchored this morning. Glacial ice rested here 1,500 to 4,000 years ago and deposited rocky moraines that now snare the floating ice. This is an ideal spot to cruise with our inflatable boats past outrageously blue bergs and fanciful ice sculptures of whale tails, birds, and dragons. Air bubbles squeezed by the heavy ice snapped, crackled, and popped, while cottony wisps of low fog snaked across the landscape.
Petersburg, a fishing town settled by Norwegians, is a fascinating stop for an afternoon. The officers docked in the heart of the harbor where we could freely come and go for a wide range of activities. Floatplanes lifted off the water in Wrangell Narrows to provide fabulous views of the glacier, harbor seals, and icebergs. Other options included strolling along the docks to investigate sea anemones and fishing boats, hiking to a peat bog, joining a photo walk, getting exercise on an aerobic hike, bicycling, or exploring town. Bogs here are called muskegs, and this plant community covers approximately 10 percent of Southeast Alaska. Instead of the towering trees of the adjacent temperate rain forest, these sites have dwarfed, stunted conifers that emerge from a blanket of wet moss. A plank walkway offered easy access into this soggy environment. A family of sooty grouse remained almost motionless as we walked past, relying on camouflage to conceal them.
A group of very talented guests treated us to lively music as the ship left Petersburg. Tonight’s dinner menu included yummy ribs as well as crab from town. Dungeness crab is one of the many targeted species caught by local fishermen and is trapped in a way that is sustainable with no bycatch. We cracked and picked to remove the delicate and delicious flesh from these crustaceans and then ate dessert in the lounge. Our video chronicler shared a preview of his account of our voyage, a fun reminder of so many shared experiences here in Southeast Alaska.
