Awaking to whales is something that one never tires of. That first moment when you step out on deck and see a distinctive exhale, or “blow,” any vestige of sleep quickly dissipates, as does the cloud of vapor that briefly puffs up over the horizon, indicating the massive mammal location.  

Humpback whales don’t come to Baja for the food as they are here in these warmer waters exclusively for reproductive reason. These cetaceans can reach up to almost 50 feet in length, a fact one might question until they throw themselves entirely out of the water and remove any doubt as to their blubberous bulk in what is called a “breach.” While we patiently await these special but somewhat sporadic antics, there is still an amazing sunrise to appreciate as we float off Land’s End, perhaps one of Baja Sur’s most iconic landmarks and the southernmost point of our journey. The weathered rocks are punctuated by a distinctive arch, along with dramatic sandstone spires that rise up out of the deep blue waters, catching the first rays of golden sun. 

However it is time for us to start our voyage in earnest, which means there is some ground to cover, and we must press northwards. Winds and waves eagerly rise up to unnecessarily encourage this decision. The afternoon is spent new making acquaintances with fellow guests and the facilities of the National Geographic Sea Bird. Riding each set of swells as gracefully as possible we push on towards the leeward side of islands ahead and thoroughly examine the comforts of the beds onboard. At last we reach Espiritu Santo and its promised protection. Falling asleep in a sheltered anchorage is certainly something that one never tires of.