National Geographic Sea Bird glided over a speckled sea that foretold the weather of the day. Just off Peril Strait on Baranof IsIand is Lake Eva, nestled in an old growth forest. An excellent trail parallels a stream that connects the lake with the sea. Sections of slow water have gravel perfect for salmon spawning. The creek leads to a tumbling cascade that ends in a winding, intertidal backwater lined with rockweed, old butter clam shells, dead salmon carcasses, and the tracks of brown bears. This is a well-known destination in Southeast Alaska because of its stunning beauty and fishing potential. The trail has views over the intertidal area, the waterfall, and a pool of milling pink, chum, and sockeye salmon. Those on longer hikes made their way through the forest to the lake and a grove of four giant trees. One group heard some odd noises then watched as two river otters swam skeptically towards them. Their intense curiosity drew them closer and closer as the hikers stayed very quiet and still. From only 30 feet away they stared with amusing curiosity then, seeming satisfied, they crawled back over the floating logs and off to another agenda.
Other hikers enjoyed the walk, the scenery, and the extraordinary life and death cycle of Pacific salmon. Bear sightings added a layer of excitement to our exploration. One bear ripped a fish apart by violently shaking its head back and forth until pieces were torn loose, slung through the air and splashed into the water. Later it walked down the trail and out among our life jackets, grabbed one in its mouth and carried it down the beach soon to drop it. The radio chatter from the natural history staff went something like this, “It’s going back to the trail, no now it’s just standing on the beach.” “We are at the junction can we keep coming? We all made it back to the beach landing without bothering the bruin, a fine outing in the dripping woods.
During the afternoon we cruised south along Chatham Strait. This incredibly long and straight strait separates Baranof and Chichagof Islands from Admiralty Island. We passed numerous bays and inlets and a few humpback whales. Many of our guests relaxed, read, visited with friends, or watched a program on sled dogs. Some of our younger guests had a tour of the bridge with our first mate, John Kolodzieczyk. A highlight for many was to actually drive the ship, sit up in the big chair and act like a captain, minus the ordering people around.
Dr. Andy Szabo, the director of the Alaska Whale Foundation, boarded our ship near Baranof Warm Springs and presented a fascinating lecture on humpback whales. He has the charisma and the subject matter to hold his audience mesmerized for as long as he speaks. He revealed humpback whales as individuals with skills and behaviors that expanded our appreciation of them to a much higher level.
Dinner soon followed, and before long, the ship set sail for new adventures.
