We awoke this morning with the slightly surreal sense that can only follow an experience such as a visit to see the Baining Fire Dance. The slow dawning realization that the events of last night – the bizarre faces, leaping flames and scattering sparks - were not some weird dream but a part of the amazing reality of a journey in Melanesia.
During our visit yesterday to the Rabaul we were introduced to the volcanic peaks known as ‘the mother’ and ‘the daughters.’ Today, entering Kimbe Bay on the north coast of New Britain, the skyline was dominated by the 2,300 meter peak known as ‘the father.’ Our destination was not the volcano, but the underwater riches of this world famous region. We were firmly in expedition mode and launched all the toys for diving, snorkel operations, glass-bottom Zodiacs, and walks onshore.
And no matter where you turned or which option you chose, there were riches to enjoy. The random arrival of a group of long-snouted spinner dolphins close to our morning landing site meant that Zodiac shuttles have only rarely been more entertaining. The discovery of cuttlefish on the reefs meant that both divers and snorkelers could enjoy these beautiful animals. And throughout it all we relished the scene of the ship anchored in azure waters between lush tropical islands and the vibrant life on the reefs.
The day wound up with a remarkable squall that blew in at the end of the afternoon, complete with a waterspout. This arrived just as operations for the day were ending, as if to remind us how lucky we have been with our day here and move us along on our way to New Ireland tomorrow and our penultimate day in Melanesia.
