We awoke early today to view the spectacular Kasnyku Waterfall cascading into a small bay on the eastern shore of Baranof Island.  A small glacial-fed lake far above was the source of this beautiful sight.  We sailed north to Kelp Bay where a small flotilla of kayaks carried our guests down the south arm of the bay.  Another group explored the area in the inflatable “Dibs” and was rewarded with views of humpback whales feeding and briefly breaching.  Returning to the ship after morning operations, we listened to Dr. Andy Szabo, director of the Alaska Whale Foundation talk about the extraordinary behavior of the whales in Southeast Alaska.

As we prepared for our hikes in the Tongass National Forest, we finally received the rain that all of us had packed for!  It was a welcomed relief from the exceptionally hot and dry conditions of the last two days, and it provided a perfect backdrop for our hike through this amazing old-growth forest.  A large group of energetic, fast-moving aerobic hikers followed by two just slightly slower groups explored the forest and the rich salmon stream.  All hikers made the trek to Lake Eva and along the way saw plenty of bear signs.  A red squirrel sat near the trail on the stump of a tree munching, corn-cob style, on the cone of a Sitka Spruce. The detritus of his many other meals was piled along the base of the tree.  A beaver too had been at work, nearly gnawing through a small tree along the edge of Lake Eva.  A large school of sockeye salmon were observed in the shallow waters above a small waterfall.  All were adjusting to the new fresh-water environment having just returned from the sea to their natal stream.  With a light, but steady rain falling through the forest canopy, we began to feel the true environment of this temperate rain forest and could better appreciate these amazing old-growth spruce and hemlock trees towering above us.

The National Geographic Sea Lion was a welcome sight for all emerging from the forest and we returned tired but satisfied.  Our crew welcomed us back on board, cared for our needs and fed us an amazing dinner.  Heading north, away from Baranof Island we reflected on another fine day and wondered about our next adventure in this truly exceptional land.