Kangaamiut Kangerluarsuat, 9/11/2018, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
As National Geographic Explorer made its way south from Ilulissat, we were treated to a couple of interesting presentations. First, National Geographic Photographer Jonathan Irish showed us work from his A Year in the National Parks project. Then MIT guest speaker Richard Binzel spoke about the Arctic and why it exists. After lunch, we had a full-on expedition day in Kanaamiut Kangerluarsuat.
With views of a tidewater glacier, we went on hikes of various distances and then a photo walk with hands-on instruction by Jonathan Irish. Out on the water, we went kayaking and cruised in the Zodiacs. For the especially brave among us, there was a polar plunge in the icy waters of the fjord. Truly a memorable day.
Having grown up in the wilds of Northern Minnesota, Eric’s lifelong love of nature and a desire to explore was a forgone conclusion. His childhood summers were spent canoeing the lakes of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area and his winters were spent expl...
Jim was born in rural New England where he quickly developed an appreciation for the outdoors and a love of exploration. Four years with the U.S. Navy further enhanced his appetite for travel. Always interested in the visual arts, he studied Televis...
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Today was a real day of exploration. No towns or docks—only the wilderness and our shipmates. For the first time on the expedition, we were truly explorers. Arriving at a new destination, uncharted and unscouted by any of the staff, turned out to be a fantastic day on Greenland. We arrived in the morning at the mouth of a fjord further south than we had yet ventured and went ashore after a presentation from our National Geographic photographer, Johnathan Irish. Plenty of hikes and walks stretched our legs as we filled our eyes and memory cards with the epic scenery. During the second half of the day, we participated in water activities on the fjord, right at the face of the very active, blue glacier. We kayaked and Zodiac cruised, navigating among the perhaps 100,000-years-old ice. As a bonus, we were offered the opportunity to jump into the nearly freezing waters for a Polar Plunge!
Today was almost all about icebergs. The Ilulissat icefjord is the biggest iceberg factory in the Northern Hemisphere. Bergs calved from a tongue of the Greenland ice sheet are spat into the head of this fjord—but there's a problem: A shallow hump at the mouth of the fiord catches deep-drafted bergs, locking them in an iceberg jail yard, until the irresistible force of more arriving bergs push them past. Boat tours gave guests a close-up experience of the immense icebergs at the fjord's mouth. A short hike down a boardwalk led guests to a fjord-side cliff that overlooked the iceberg prison. The Ilulissat area is home to Sermermiut, settled thousands of years ago by the Saqqaq indigenous people and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greenland. Together, history and natural wonders have earned the Ilulissat icefjord the designation of a UNESCO World Heritage site. Many guests took advantage of free time for walks in town. The dog sledding tradition is much alive in Greenland, and guests saw many of tethered dogs, waiting for their summer vacation to end and their sledding work to begin.
After some great days of expedition in Iceland, we arrived in Greenland to incredible weather and scenery. It was not yet totally dark when the call come up: “We have something special dancing in the skies—you can’t miss this!” We were treated to a spectacular show of the aurora. The greens, reds, and yellows of the northern lights painted the skies all around the ship. It was simply unbelievable! In the morning, we were in Sisimiut, the second biggest town in Greenland, with about 5,000 inhabitants. Fishing for shrimp, cod, and haddock is the main industry. This town has the privilege of having a port that does not freeze over the winter; it’s accessible by sea all year-round. Our morning was spent exploring this colorful town with local inhabitants. Some of us adventured on a nature hike to the outskirts of Sisimiut. In former times, the Inuits only wore clothes made from animal hides or skins. These clothes were warm and hardwearing, and if properly looked after, could cope with the winter’s freezing temperatures in the Arctic region. Before contact with the outside world, the Inuits did not have access to fabrics and beads—all clothing was made from skins of seal, polar bear, reindeer, foxes, rabbits, and dogs. Both men’s and women’s clothes consisted of furs, trousers, and boots, but with different cut and choice of animal skin. The West Greenlandic outfit for the women is very colourful. They use sealskin for the kamiks, as well as embroidery and dyed sealskin leather, cut into small pieces, called avittat. The pants are almost shorts and are also made of sealskin and avittat. The anorak is made of fabric and features a complicated design with a beautiful pearl collar. In the afternoon, we visited a local clothing school for the crafting of traditional products. The details, the creativity, and the patience to produce such pieces is fascinating. We also saw a local Inuit man perform an astonishing kayak demonstration right next to National Geographic Explorer . One would think the day was almost at the end, but we were thrilled to see the second-largest cetacean in the world, the fin whale (which can travel at 48km/h) swimming just next to our ship. What a day!
