Early risers aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird this morning were treated to a sunrise…golden light radiating forth from blue skies dotted with puffy white clouds…always a welcome sight here in the Pacific Northwest. After traveling along the east side of Vancouver Island throughout the night, we arrived in Johnstone Strait, where we spent the morning cruising, enjoying the abundant sunshine and fresh air and hoping for some marine wildlife. We met in the lounge for a talk about Alert Bay and the Kwakwaka’ waka native people with whom we would spend the afternoon.
During lunch we docked at the village of Alert Bay, and disembarked to meet and experience the culture of this native people. We were welcomed by the calls of ravens and eagles. Our first stop: U’Mista Cultural Center, housing quite a bit of Kwakwaka’ waka potlatch regalia from the early 1900s along with other museum pieces, and a gift shop with beautiful local artisan crafts including carvings and jewelry. After the museum we headed uphill toward the tallest totem pole in the country, living outside the Big House of the Tsasala Cultural Group. Entering the building was like being transported to another time or place. We stepped onto the dirt floor of this huge open cedar-walled room, with cedar benches along the side walls, tremendous native carvings along the back and front walls, and a fire in the center, its smoke wafting up to exit through a raised vented central part of the ceiling. Sunlight radiated through the slats from the ceiling vents, providing a gorgeous ethereal quality. We were invited to sit along the side wall, and at the back wall (now to our right) sat the drummers/singers behind a massive carved-out tree log that served as drum. In front of the singers were benches, where some of the members sat to watch and support those performing around the fire. The Tsasala people performed some traditional dances for us, in between explaining their significance, and introducing some of the younger people. They continue to practice and pass on their culture to younger generations while simultaneously navigating the modern world of school and work and technology. There was an ease and comfort being in their presence, and a clearly felt generosity of heart and spirit. To culminate the performance, dancers came and handed scarves to us in the audience, an invitation to join them in dance around the fire. And afterwards, a feast of delicious wild salmon, and a native treat of fried bread with homemade jams. Yum!
Back aboard we gathered again in the lounge, to recap our day and, once again, eat! After dinner our undersea specialists will show us footage of their dive at Alert Bay. At this writing the sky remains clear, the sun shining, the waters calm, the air sweet and fresh. We are blessed to be here in this now.
